A plain risotto

There is much debate about the ideal texture of risotto – sloppy and almost soup-like on the one hand, firmer and dryer on the other. It’s a taste thing. I prefer to err on the side of wetter rather than dryer and I have no problem with the comforting idea of eating risotto with a spoon. In the end, it’s entirely up to you.
- about 500ml vegetable (or chicken) stock – home-made or made with vegetable bouillon powder
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- 1 small onion or shallot, very finely sliced
- 200g risotto rice
- 2 tablespoons vermouth or dry white wine (optional)
- a knob of butter
- a good handful of freshly grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra to serve
- salt and pepper
Instructions:
Once you’ve made a plain risotto, the variations are infinite. Just remember to add leftover meat, fish or vegetables at the last minute, giving them time to warm through properly without falling apart or losing their bite.
- Because they will not add much flavour to the rice as they cook, add stronger tastes at the end of the process as well as at the beginning: finely chopped garlic or aromatics such as celery and fennel are good at the start, and the freshest herbs you can get your hands on at the end. Use the best Parmesan you can find (but don’t include it with fish).
- I make risotto just as often with leftovers as I do with fresh ingredients. Nor do I mind reheating it for lunch the next day. I also go out of my way to cook too much risotto every time, because there’s a delightful Italian thing to do with the leftovers – Arancini (Risotto Balls
- Heat the stock in a pan and keep it at a bare simmer.
- In a separate pan, heat the olive oil, add the onion or shallot, then cover and cook gently until softened.
- Add the rice and stir it well, so that each grain is coated in oil.
- Add the vermouth or wine if using (or a ladleful of stock) and let it bubble, stirring well, for 30 seconds or so, until it has been absorbed by the rice. The rice should begin to look creamy.
- Keeping the pan over a low heat, add a ladleful of stock and stir pretty constantly to encourage that creaminess to develop.
- As the rice absorbs the stock, add another ladleful and repeat the process until, after 15–20 minutes, the rice is cooked but not falling apart: it should have a very slightly nutty bite to it. The stock should be just about used up, but it is impossible to be absolutely precise about how much you will need. You may have a little stock left over, or you may have to top it up with some hot water from the kettle.
- Once the rice is cooked, gently stir in the butter and Parmesan and season to taste. Serve immediately, with more Parmesan at the table to grate over the top, accompanied by a crunchy green salad.
- Some more ideeas:
- Leftover chicken and lemon Add 1–2 teacups of meat and the zest of ½ lemon about 5 minutes before the rice is cooked. A few frozen peas would be nice here too. To ring the changes, roast sweet potato or lightly browned sliced fennel could be added with the chicken.
- Frozen peas Defrost about 1½ teacups of peas. Cook half of them gently in a good tablespoon of butter. Add a tablespoon of grated Parmesan when they are tender and whiz into a green gloop in a food processor. Stir this through the cooked rice, along with the whole peas. It will turn a luscious spring green. Scatter chopped mint or basil, and more Parmesan, on top.
- Broad beans or asparagus Add 1–2 teacups of broad beans or asparagus, chopped into 2–3cm lengths, to the rice, giving them just enough time to cook (about 6–8 minutes). Scatter over torn prosciutto right at the end.
- Frozen prawns 1–2 teacups of defrosted cooked prawns (or cooked fish, broken into pieces) can be added once the rice is cooked, along with plenty of chopped herbs such as parsley, basil or sage. Use fish stock if you have it. You could substitute fennel or leek for onion at the start. Omit the Parmesan.
- Leftover beef Cut the rarest pieces into strips, adding them with some very finely chopped rosemary and sage once the rice is cooked. Use a glass of red wine rather than white wine at the very start.
- Mushrooms Fry 1–2 teacups of sliced mushrooms in a little olive oil or butter until tender. Beef up the flavour, if you like, by adding some reconstituted dried mushrooms, following the instructions on the packet and squeezing them well before chopping them and cooking with the rest of the mushrooms. Keep all these to one side. Add a crushed garlic clove to the onion at the start. Make the risotto as usual and add the mushrooms once the rice is cooked, giving them just enough time to heat through. Finish with the Parmesan and a good handful of chopped parsley.