Beef Stew, For Ways

Braised beef—which is what beef stew is—can be spiced in many different ways; I offer several versions here, but you can also make a chililike beef stew or a beef curry . The substitutions are easy and work perfectly. You can skip the initial browning if you’re pressed for time, or you can use the oven: Heat the oven to 500 F and roast the meat in a large roasting pan with 1 tablespoon of the oil and the garlic clove, shaking the pan to turn the cubes once or twice, until brown all over. Other cuts and meats you can use: cubed beef brisket, pork shoulder or fresh ham (pork leg), leg of lamb or lamb shoulder.

2 tablespoons neutral oil, like grapeseed or corn, or extra virgin olive oil

1 clove garlic, lightly crushed, plus 1 tablespoon minced garlic

2 to 21/2 pounds boneless beef chuck or round, trimmed of surface fat and cut into 1- to 11/2-inch cubes

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 large or 3 medium onions, cut into eighths

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

3 cups chicken, beef, or vegetable stock (to make your own, see vegetable stock
), water, wine, or a combination, or more as needed

1 bay leaf

1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

4 medium to large waxy or all-purpose potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks

4 large carrots, cut into 1-inch chunks

1 cup fresh or thawed frozen peas

Chopped fresh parsley leaves for garnish

• Heat a large pot with a lid or a Dutch oven over medium-high heat for 2 or 3 minutes; add the oil and the crushed garlic clove; cook, stirring, for 1 minute, then remove and discard the garlic. Add the meat to the skillet a few pieces at a time, turning to brown well on all sides, about 10 minutes total. Do not crowd or the cubes will not brown properly; cook in batches if necessary. Sprinkle the meat with salt and pepper as it cooks.
• When the meat is brown, remove it with a slotted spoon. Pour or spoon off most of the fat and turn the heat down to medium. Add the onions. Cook, stirring, until softened, about 10 minutes. Add the flour and cook, stirring, for about 2 minutes. Add the stock, bay leaf, thyme, and meat and bring to a boil. Turn the heat down to low and cover. Cook, undisturbed, for 30 minutes.
• Uncover the pot; the mixture should be wet (if not, add a little more liquid). Add the potatoes and carrots, turn the heat up for a minute or so to bring the liquid back to a boil, then lower the heat and cover again. Cook for 30 to 60 minutes, until the meat and vegetables are tender. Taste and adjust the seasoning. (At this point, you may remove the meat and vegetables with a slotted spoon and refrigerate them and the stock separately. Skim the fat from the stock before combining it with the meat and vegetables, reheating, and proceeding with the recipe from this point.)
• Add the minced garlic and the peas; if you’re pleased with the stew’s consistency, continue to cook, covered, over low heat. If it’s too soupy, remove the cover and raise the heat to high. In either case, cook for an additional 5 minutes or so, until the peas have heated through and the garlic has flavored the stew. Garnish with parsley and serve.

Belgian Beef Stew with Beer (Carbonnade).
• In Step 2, omit the flour. Use 11/2 cups good dark beer for the liquid. Omit the potatoes, carrots, peas, and minced garlic. This is good finished with a tablespoon of Dijon mustard and served over buttered noodles or with plain boiled potatoes.

Spicy Braised Beef with Lime.
• In Step 1, use peanut oil if you have it. In Step 2, omit the bay leaf and thyme and add 1 tablespoon minced garlic, 2 or 3 small dried hot red chiles, or to taste, and the minced zest of 1 lime; use only 11/2 cups of liquid. Do not add vegetables. When the meat is tender, finish the dish by adding more minced garlic and the juice of 1 or 2 limes, to taste. Garnish with chopped fresh cilantro leaves and serve with Steamed Sticky Rice, Thai Style (page 459), or plain white rice.

Beef Stew with Bacon.
• In Step 1, cut 4 ounces bacon (preferably slab) into small cubes and cook it over medium heat, stirring, until crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and reserve. Proceed with the recipe, browning the meat in the bacon fat. Stir in the bacon cubes a minute before serving.

MAKES: 4 to 6 servings

TIME: 11/2 to 2 hours, largely unattended