Blackberry ice cream

Wild raspberries, huckleberries, or boysenberries can be used in place of blackberries, if you prefer. Drizzle leftover blackberry puree on top for added flavor.

4 cups fresh blackberries

1 1 / 3 cups sugar

1 / 2 cup water

1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise and scraped

2 cups milk

6 large egg yolks

2 cups heavy cream

• Combine 3 cups blackberries with 1 cup sugar and the water in a medium nonreactive saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce heat to a simmer, and cook, stirring constantly, until the sugar dissolves and the berries begin to fall apart, about 4 minutes.
• Remove from the heat. Pass the berry mixture through a fine sieve into a medium bowl, gently pressing down on the solids with a wooden spoon to release as much liquid as possible. Measure out 1/ 2 cup solids, and set aside; discard the remaining solids. Measure out 1 3 / 4 cups strained puree, and return it to the saucepan; reserve any remaining puree for serving. (Store reserved puree in an airtight container in the refrigerator until ready to use.)
• Place the vanilla bean and scrapings in a saucepan, and add the milk. Bring to a gentle boil over medium heat, and remove from heat. Discard the vanilla pod.
• Prepare an ice-water bath, and set aside. Combine the egg yolks and the remaining 1 / 3 cup sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Beat on medium-high speed until the mixture is pale yellow, 3 to 5 minutes
• Using a measuring cup or ladle, slowly pour about 1/ 2 cup hot milk mixture into the egg yolk mixture, beating constantly on low speed until blended. Continue adding the milk mixture, about 1 / 2 cup at a time, beating until thoroughly combined after each addition.
• Return the mixture to the saucepan. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until it is thick enough to coat the back of the spoon and hold a line drawn across the back of the spoon with your finger, 6 to 8 minutes.
• Remove from heat; add the reserved strained puree, and immediately stir in the cream to stop the cooking. Pour through a fine sieve into a medium bowl set in the ice bath; let cool completely, stirring occasionally. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and place in the refrigerator until thoroughly chilled, at least 30 minutes or overnight.
• Freeze the mixture in an ice-cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions; it should still be slightly soft. Stir in the reserved 1 / 2 cup blackberry solids and remaining 1 cup blackberries; spin a few times in the ice-cream maker to distribute evenly. Transfer the mixture to an airtight container, and place in the freezer until the ice cream is completely set, at least 4 hours and up to 1 week.

MAKES ABOUT 2 QUARTS