EFFECT OF COOKING ON VEGETABLES

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The various ways in which cooking affects vegetables should be thoroughly understood by the housewife. In the first place, some methods conserve the food material whereas others waste it.cooked-vegetables21

For instance, boiling in water, which is probably one of the most common ways of cooking vegetables, is decidedly advantageous in some respects, but the water dissolves much of the soluble material, such as mineral salts, sugar, etc., found in the vegetables, so that unless some use is made of this water in the cooking of other foods, considerable waste results.

On the other hand, steaming and baking permit no loss of food material, and so they should be applied to vegetables whenever it is desired to conserve food substances.

The flavors of vegetables are greatly changed during the process of cooking, being increased in some cases and decreased in others. In the case of such strongly flavored vegetables as cabbage, cauliflower, onions, etc., it is advisable to dissipate part of the flavor.

Therefore such vegetables should be cooked in an open vessel in order that the flavor may be decreased by evaporation. Vegetables mild in flavor, however, are improved by being cooked in a closed vessel, for all their flavor should be retained.

The overcooking of vegetables is sometimes responsible for an increase of a disagreeable flavor. Another feature of vegetables often changed by cooking is their color. For instance, green vegetables do not, upon cooking, always remain green. In many cases, the color may be improved by adding a very small quantity of soda to the water in which the vegetables are cooked.cooked-vegetables22

Attention should also be given to the length of time vegetables are subjected to heat, for the over boiling of some vegetables is liable to develop an unattractive color in them.

This is particularly the case with cabbage, cauliflower, and Brussels sprouts, which develop not only a strong, disagreeable flavor but also a reddish color when cooked too long.

The application of heat to vegetables also has a definite effect on them. By sufficient cooking, the cellulose of vegetables is softened to the extent that it is less irritating and much more likely to be partly digested than that of raw vegetables. The acids of fruits increase upon cooking, and so the acidity of vegetables is increased to a certain extent.

Vegetables that contain starch are rendered digestible in no other way than by cooking. On the other hand, the protein material of this food is coagulated by the application of heat, just as the white of an egg or the tissue of meat is coagulated and hardened. However, cooking is the only means of softening the cellulose that surrounds this material.

Still, high-protein foods, such as beans, peas, and lentils, can be much improved if they are cooked in water that is not very hard. The lime in hard water has a tendency to harden them to the extent that they require a much longer time to cook than when soft water is used.

These vegetables may be still further softened by the addition of a small quantity of soda to the water in which they are cooked, but care should be taken not to use too much soda, as it will injure the flavor.cooking-vegetables1

When soda is used, the vegetable should be parboiled for 10 or 15 minutes in the soda water and then drained and cooked in fresh water. This method, of course, does not apply to vegetables that are cooked in soda water to retain their color.

Salt is always added in the cooking of vegetables to season them. In the use of salt, two important points must be borne in mind: first, that it has the effect of hardening the tissues of the vegetable in much the same manner as it hardens the tissues of meat; and, secondly, that it helps to draw out the flavor of the vegetables.

These two facts determine largely the time for adding the salt. If an old, tough, winter vegetable is to be prepared, it should be cooked until nearly soft in water that contains no salt, and the salt should be added just before the cooking is finished.

When it is desired to draw out the flavor, as, for instance, when vegetables are cooked for soup or stews, the salt should be supplied when the vegetables are put on to cook.

Young tender vegetables may be cooked in salt water, but as such water extracts a certain amount of flavor, an effort should be made to use it in the preparation of stews, sauces, and soups.

Baking Pies

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TWO CRUST PIE: Fruit is the most popular filling for two crust pies. Any kind of fruit mixed with sugar, sometime spices and a thickener will make a delicious two crust fruit pie. Left-over chicken, pork and beef are also used to make a new and delicious meal when they are baked in small two-crust pies.pies2

DEEP-DISH AND COBBLERS: Deep-dish and Cobblers are pies that are usually baked in a casserole pan. They are thick pies with a crust covering only the top. They are served by the spoonful rather than by the slice. Deep-Dish apple pie in New England is considered a way of life.

ONE CRUST PIE: Single crust pies are used to hold custard type pies such as pumpkin. Cream pies with meringue topping are single crust pies as are refrigerator pies with whipped cream topping.

MIXING PASTRY FOR PIE CRUSTS

The crust of a pie must provide support and often a cover for the pie filling. No matter if you make your crust from scratch or from a premix, it is very important that pie dough pastry is handled gently and not over mixed.

Pastry is the most popular crust for pies, but graham cracker, crushed cookies and coconut are also used. Pastry crusts are sometimes pre-baked before adding the filling. Graham cracker and crushed cookie types of crusts are usually pre-baked. Always check your recipe to make sure whether the crust is pre-baked or not.

PASTRY DOUGH

I. When using your mixer, make sure that you use the beaters designed for pastry mixing. Do not over mix the dough.

II. When using your blender, make sure that you do not over mix the dough. Blenders mix the dough very quickly.how-to-make-pastry-dough-2

III. Make sure that all your utensils are clean.

IV. Use chilled shortening and ice cold water in the mix.

V. Mix the chilled shortening and dry ingredients (except the salt) together first. These ingredients should be blended well. Water and salt will cause the pastry to be tough, so dissolve the salt in the ice water and add it last. Blend the dough only until the mix is not wet and sticky feeling. Adding the salt/water last with careful blending is the key to making tender, flaky pastry.

PIE PAN PREPARATION

I. Spray your pie pans with a release agent before lining them with graham cracker or crushed cookie crusts.

II. Use a spray without added flour.

III. A very thin coating of all-purpose shortening rubbed on the pie pan with your fingers will cause the crust release.

IV. When a refrigerator type filling is used in a graham cracker crust, it is best to place the pie on a warm surface just long enough to soften the bottom of the crust, causing it to release from the pan. Glass pans are pretty to look at and extremely useful in making pies, but they are very stubborn about releasing a crumb crust. You can wrap a hot towel around the bottom and sides of a pan to warm it enough for easy crust removal.

BAKING PIES

I. Turn on your oven about twenty minutes before using. This simple step will help insure the temperature will be more accurate when you start baking.

II. Set your oven at 365 degrees. When the heat shuts off, check the oven’s temperature with an oven thermometer.

III. Place the thermometer at different points (front and back) and at different levels (bottom, middle, top shelf). The results will let you see how to best bake pies in your unique oven.baking-pies

IV. When your recipe reads — “bake for 45 minutes” set your timer for 35 minutes and check your pies. Each oven is different and it’s a good baking practice to check on baking progress. The most common mistake is to under bake fruit pies, but it’s awful to burn the top crust.

V. Top crusts baking too fast are usually caused by excessive top heat in the oven. Cover your pies with brown paper or an extra foil pan. When you spray or paint milk on the pie top it will brown off too fast.

VI. Thin the milk-wash with water and it will take longer to brown.

VII. Pans with a dark colored, non-stick coating will cause pies to bake good on their bottoms.

VIII. Always season new pans (before using) by applying a thin coat of vegetable oil and placing in a 400 degree oven for about twenty minutes. Wipe the pans clean, cool and prepare as usual for baking. Pans coated with a dark colored, non-stick coating or glass pans do not need seasoning.

Sauteing Poultry

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Sauteed poultry should be tender and juicy, its flavor developed by pit browning. Additional flavors come from a sauce made by deglazing the pan usually with wine, and adding garnishes, seasonings and liquids. Stir-frying is a popular method of sauteing poultry; boneless pieces are cut into strips and quickly cooked with assorted vegetables and seasonings.roast-cooked-chicken

Selecting Poultry to Saute

Most poultry is quite tender and well suited for sauteing. Although small birds such as squab can be sauteed bone-in, large pieces and bone-in cuts from larger birds should not be sauteed. Boneless breasts, supremes, scallops and cutlets are the most common and practical cuts for sauteing. Because they are high in fat, boneless duck breasts (called magrets) can be sautéed without additional fat.

Seasoning Poultry to be Sauteed

Poultry has a delicate flavor that is enhanced by a wide variety of herbs, spices, condiments and marinades. Flavor combinations are limited only by your imagination. When poultry items are dusted with flour before sauteing, the seasonings may first be added to the flour.

Cooking Temperatures

The saute pan and the cooking fat must be hot before the poultry is added. The temperature at which the poultry is then sauteed is determined by its thickness and the desired color of the finished product. A thin, boneless slice Squires relatively high temperatures so that its surface is browned before the center is overcooked. A thicker cut such as a supreme requires lower temper­atures so that neither its surface nor the fond are burned before the item is fully cooked. Adjust the temperature throughout the cooking process in order to achieve the desired results, never letting the pan become too cool.

If the pan is overcrowded or otherwise allowed to cool, the poultry will cook in its own juices and absorb oil from the pan, resulting in a poor-quality product.

Determining Doneness

Thin cuts of poultry cook very quickly, so timing is a useful tool; it is less useful with thicker cuts. Experienced cooks can tell the doneness of an item by judging the temperature of the saute pan and the color of the item being cooked.

A more practical method is to press the item with your finger and judge the resistance. Very undercooked poultry will offer little resistance and feel mushy. Slightly underdone poultry will feel spongy and will not spring back when your finger is removed. Properly cooked poultry will feel firm to the touch and will spring back when your finger is removed. Overcooked poultry will feel very firm, almost hard, and will spring back quickly when your finger is removed.cooked-chicken1

Accompaniments to Sauteed Poultry

Sauteed poultry is usually served with a sauce made directly in the pan in much the item was cooked. The sauce uses the fond for added flavor. A wide variety of ingredients, including garlic, onions, shallots, mushrooms and toma­toes, are commonly added to the pan as well as wine and stock.

Sauteed items are often served with a starch such as pasta, rice or potatoes.

Procedure for Sauteing Poultry

1. Heat a saute pan and add enough fat or oil to just cover the bottom.

2. Add the poultry item, presentation side down, and cook until browned.

3. Turn the item, using tongs or by tossing the item back upon itself using the pan’s sloped sides.

4. Larger items can be finished in an oven. Either place the saute pan in the oven or transfer the poultry to another pan. The latter procedure allows a sauce to be made in the original pan as the poultry cooks in the oven.

Hold smaller pieces that are thoroughly cooked in a warm place so that the pan can be used for making the sauce.

Procedure for Preparing a Sauce in the Saute Pan

1. Pour off any excess fat or oil from the saute pan, leaving enough to saute the sauce ingredients.

2 Add ingredients such as garlic, shallots and mushrooms that will be used as garnishes and sauce flavorings; saute them.

3. Deglaze the pan with wine, stock or other liquids. Scrape the pan, loosening the fond and allowing it to dissolve in the liquid. Reduce the liquid.

4. Add any ingredients that do not require long cooking times such as herbs and spices. Adjust the sauce’s consistency and seasonings.

5.     For service, the poultry’ can be returned to the pan for a moment to reheat it and to coat it with the sauce. The poultry should remain in the sauce jus long enough to reheat. Do not attempt to cook the poultry in ihe same.

6.    Serve the poultry with the accompanying sauce.

Chicken Saute  with Onions, Garlic and Bash

Ingredients:

Chicken breasts, boneless, skinless  approx. 8 oz. (250 g) each 3
Salt and pepper TT
Flour as needed
Clarified butter 1 oz.
Onion, small dice 2 oz.
Garlic cloves, chopped 6
Dry white wine 4 oz.
Lemon juice 1 Tbsp.
Tomato concassee 6 oz.
Chicken stock 4 oz.
Fresh basil leaves, chiffonade 6

chicken-saute-with-onions-garlic-and-bash

How to make:

1. Split the chicken breasts and remove the cartilage connecting the halves.

2. Season the chicken with salt and pepper: dredge in flour.

3. Saute the breasts in the butter, browning them and cooking a point. Hold in a warm place.

4. Add the onions and garlic to the fond and butter in the pan; saute until d onions are translucent.

5.Deglaze the pan with the white wine and lemon juice.

6. Add the tomato concassee and chicken stock. Saute to combine the (Ian reduce the sauce to the desired consistency.

7. Add die basil to the sauce and return the chicken breasts for reheating. Ad­just the seasonings and serve 1/2 breast per portion with a portion of the sauce

Dry-Heat Cooking Methods for Vegetables

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The following general guidelines for vegetable cookery should be considered regardless of the cooking method used:

1. Vegetables should be carefully cut into uniform shapes and sizes to pro­mote even cooking and provide an attractive finished product.

2. Cook vegetables for as short a time as possible to preserve texture, color and nutrients.cook-vegetables3

3.Cook vegetables as close to service time as possible. Holding vegetables in a steam table continues to cook them.

4. When necessary, vegetables may be blanched in advance, refreshed in ice water and refrigerated. They can then be reheated as needed.

5.White and red vegetables (those with flavonoid pigments) may be cooked with a small amount of acid such as lemon juice, vinegar or white wine to help retain their color.

6.When preparing an assortment of vegetables, cook each type separately , then combine them. Otherwise, some items would become overcooked in the time required to properly cook others.

Dry-Heat Cooking Methods for Vegetables

Broiling and Grilling

Broiling and grilling use high heat to cook vegetables quickly. This preserves their nutritional content and natural flavors. The radiant heat of the broiler or grill caramelizes the vegetables, creating a pleasant flavor that is not generally achieved when vegetables are cooked by other methods.

Selecting and Preparing Vegetables to Broil or Grill

Broiling is often used to cook soft vegetables such as tomatoes or items that might not rest easily on a grill rack. Broiling is also used to warm and brown items just before service. If necessary, the vegetables can be basted to prevent them from drying out under the broiler’s direct heat. Sometimes a cooked vegetable is napped with sauce or clarified butter and placed briefly under the broiler as a finishing touch at service time.grilling-vegetables1

A large range of vegetables can be grilled. Carrots, peppers, squashes, egg­plants and similar vegetables should be cut into broad, thin slices. They can then be placed on the grill in the same manner as a portion of meat or fish to create attractive crosshatchings. Smaller vegetables such as mushrooms, cherry tomatoes and pearl onions can be threaded onto skewers for easy handling.

Seasoning Vegetables to be Broiled or Grilled

Vegetables contain little fat and therefore benefit greatly from added fat when being broiled or grilled. The added fat can be a brushing of clarified but­ter or a marinade such as one made from olive oil and herbs. Some vegetables may be brushed with butter and coated with bread crumbs or Parmesan be­fore broiling.

Procedure for Broiling or Grilling Vegetables

1. Heat the grill or broiler.

2. Use a wire brush to remove any charred or burnt particles that may be stuck to the broiler or grill grate. The grate may be wiped with a lightly oiled towel to remove any remaining panicles and help season it.

3. Prepare the vegetables to be broiled or grilled by cutting them into appropriate shapes and sizes, then seasoning, marinating or othenvise preparing them as desired or directed in the recipe.

4. Place the vegetables on the broiler grate, broiler platter or grill grate and cook to the desired doneness while developing the proper surface color.

Here you can find a delicious and easy recipe for Grilled vegetables. My family love’s it and is quite simple. All you need is :

Grilled Vegetable Skewers

Ingredients:

6oz. Zucchini

6oz Yellow squashgrilled-vegetable-skewers1

12 Broccoli florets, large

12 Cauliflower florets, large

24 pieces Onion, large dice

12 pieces Red bell pepper, large dice

12 Mushroom caps, medium

For  Marinade:

4 oz. Rice wine vinegar

8 oz. Vegetable oil

1oz. Garlic, chopped

2tbs Dried thyme

1 Tbsp. Salt

1/2 tsp Pepper

How to made:

1. Combine all ingredients for the marinade and set aside.

2. Cut the zucchini and yellow squash into 1/2-inch thick semicircles.

3. Blanch and refresh the zucchini, yellow squash, broccoli florets, cauliflower florets, onions and red bell pepper

4. Drain the vegetables well and combine them with the marinade. Add mushroom caps to the marinade. Marinate the vegetables for 30-45 minutes, remove and drain well.

5. Skewer the vegetables by alternating them on 6-inch (10-centimeter) bamboo skewers.

6.Place the vegetable skewers on a hot grill and cook until done, turning is needed. The vegetables should brown and char lightly during cooking .Serve hot

THREE TREASURES OF THE NEW WORLD

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In lieu of many spices, golden treasures and precious gems early Spanish explorers returned to Spain with items of much greater signifi­cance: tomatoes, potatoes and corn. Unfortunately for those who financed the voyagers, the value of this produce was not immediately appreciated.tomatoes-corn

The Spanish and the Italians hailed the tomato (whose name comes from the Aztec tomatl) as an aphrodisiac-perhaps because of its resemblance to the human heart- when it arrived from the New World during the 16th century.

But even though tomatoes soon become part of Spanish and Italian cuisines, most other Europeans, New World colonists and later, Americans considered tomatoes poi­sonous. (There is some truth to this notion: tomato vines and leaves contain tomatine, an alkaloid that can cause health problems.) Thus for many years and in many societies, only the adventurous ate tomatoes. Tomato historians consider September 26, 1820, a red-letter day marking the popular acceptance of the tomato.

On that day, the then-well-known eccentric Colonel Robert Gibbon Johnson ate an entire bushel of tomatoes on the Salem. New Jersey courthouse steps before a crowd of thousands -and lived. Tomatoes soon became one of the most popular of all vegetables.

Similarly, the potato, first delivered to Eu­rope from its native Peru by Francisco Pizarro in die 16th century, did not win wide acceptance in haute cuisine until Antoine-Augustin Pamientier (1737-1813), a French army pharmacist, induced King Louis XVI of France (reign 1775-1793) to try one. He and his courtiers liked them so much they even began wearing potato blossom boutonnieres.

Pamientier was ultimately honored for his starchy contribution to French cuisine by having several potato dishes named for him, such as potage Pamientier (potato soup). Not only did Pamientier lobby for the accep­tance of the potato as a food fit for a king, he also prophesied that the potato would make starvation impossible.french-fries1

Potatoes ulti­mately did become a staple of many diets. But, sadly, the converse of  Paniientier’s prophecy came true during the Irish Potato Famine of 1846-1848, when a terrible blight destroyed the potato crop. Nearly 1.5 million people died, and an equal number emigrated to the United States. They brought with them a cuisine that incorporated potatoes; thus an appreciation of the common potato was rein­troduced to its native land.

When returning from his second voyage to the New World. Columbus took corn with him. Called mahiz or maize by West Indian natives, com had been a staple of Central American diets for at least 5000 years. polenta

Although Euro­peans did not actively shun corn as they did tomatoes and potatoes, corn never really caught on in most of Europe. (As with another famous New World import, corn’s origin was mistakenly attributed by the British, Dutch, Germans and Russians to Turkey. They called corn “Turkish wheat”: the ‘lurks simply called it “foreign grain.”) Grown for human con­sumption mostly in Italy, Spain and south­western France, corn was and still is usually eaten ground and boiled as polenta.

But de­spite an unenthusiastic European reception, corn’s popularity quickly spread well beyond Europe: Within 50 years of Columbus’s journey, corn was being cultivated in lands as distant from the New World as China, India and sub-Saharan Africa.

Cheese Varieties Part II

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Cheeses can lie classified by country of origin, ripening method, fat content or texture. Here we classify fine cheeses by texture and have adopted 3 cate­gories for describe and explain the qualities of cheese:

cheddar-medium

Firm Cheeses

Firm cheeses are not hard or brittle. Some are close-textured and flaky, like cheddar; others are dense, holey cheeses like Swiss Emmenthaler. Most firm cheeses are actually imitators of these two classics. Their moisture content ranges from 30% to 40%. Cheddars are produced in both North America and Great Britain. Ameri­can Cheddar is a cow’s-milk cheese made primarily in New York, Wisconsin.

Vermont and Oregon, containing from 45% to 50% fat. The best Cheddars are made from raw milk and aged for several months. (Raw milk may be used in the United States provided the cheese is then aged at least 60 days.) They have a dense, crumbly texture. Cheddars may be white or colored orange with vegetable dyes, depending on local preference.

Flavors range from mild to very sharp, depending on the age of the cheese. Colby and longhorn are two well-known mild, soft-textured Wisconsin cheddars. Cheddars are sold in a variety of shapes and sizes, often coated with wax. Good-quality cheddars are welcome additions to any cheese board, while those of lesser quality are better reserved for cooking and sandwiches.

English Cheddar is a variety of cows-milk cheese produced in Great Britain containing approximately 45% fat. Perhaps the most imitated cheese in the world ,true English cheddar is rarely seen in the United States because of import restrictions. It is a moist yet sliceable cheese, I at least six months.

Emmenthaler (Swiss) is a cow’s-milk cheese from Switzerland containing approximately 45% fat. Emmenthaler is the original Swiss cheese: it accounts for more than half of Switzerland’s cheese production. It is mellow, rich and nutty a natural rind and a light yellow interior full of large holes. It is ripened in three with the aid of fermenting bacteria. The holes or “eyes” are caused by gases expanding inside the cheese ring fermentation. Authentic Emmenthaler is sold in 200-pound wheels with the Switzerland stamped the rind like the spokes a wheel.emmentaler

Emmenthaler, of the  basic   fondue cheeses, is also popular for sandwiches. snacks and after dinner with fruit and nuts.

Gruyere is a cow’s-milk cheese made near Fribourg in the Swiss Alps and containing proximately 45% to 50% fat. Gruyere is often imitated, as the name is not legally protected. True Gruyere is moist and highly flavorful, with a sweet nuttiness similar to Emmenthaler. Gruyere is aged for up to 12 months and then sold in huge wheels. It should have small, well-spaced holes and a brown, wrinkled rind, Gruyere melts easily and is often used with meats and in sauces, but it is also appropriate before or after dinner.

Jarlsberg is a Swiss-type cow’s-milk cheese from Norway containing approximately 45% fat. Jarlsberg closely resembles Emmenthaler in both flavor and appearance It is mild with a delicate, sweet flavor and large holes. Jarlsberg has a pale yellow interior; it is coated with yellow wax and sold in huge wheels. It has a long elf life and is popular for sandwiches, snacks and in cooking.

Monterey Jack is a cheddar like cow’s-milk cheese from California contain-: 50% fat. It is very mild and rich, with a pale ivory interior. It is sold in wheels or loaves coated with dark wax. “Jack” is often flavored with peppers or herbs and is good for snacking, sandwiches and in Mexican dishes. Dry-aged Jack develops a tough, wrinkled brown rind and a rich, firm yellow in­terior. It has a nutty, sharp flavor and is dry enough for grating.

Provolone is a cow’s-milk cheese from southern Italy containing approxi­mately 45% fat. Provolone dolce, aged only two months, is mild, with a smooth texture. Provolone piccante, aged up to six months, is stronger and somewhat flaky or stringy. Smoked provolone is also popular, especially for snacking. Provolone is shaped in various ways, from huge salamis to plump spheres to tiny piglets shaped by hand. It is excellent in sandwiches and for cooking, and is often used for melting and in pizza and pasta dishes.

Hard Cheeses

Hard cheeses are not simply cheeses that have been allowed to dry out. Rather, they are carefully aged for extended periods and have a moisture content of about 30%. Hard cheeses are most often used for grating; the best flavor will come from cheeses grated as needed. Even the finest hard cheeses begin to lose their flavor within hours of grating. The most famous and popular of the hard cheeses are those from Italy, where they are known as grana. Hard cheeses can also be served as a table cheese or with a salad.hard-cheese

Asiago is a cow’s-milk cheese from Italy containing approximately 30% fat. After only one year of aging, Asiago is sharp and nutty with a cheddar like tex­ture. If aged for two years or more, Asiago becomes dry, brittle and suitable for grating. Either version should be an even white to pale yellow in color with no dark spots, cracks or strong aromas. It is sold in small wheels and keeps for long periods if well wrapped. Asiago melts easily and is often used in cooking.

Parmigiano-Reggiano (Parmesan) is a cow’s-milk cheese made exclu­sively in the region near Parma, Italy, containing from 32% to 35% fat. Parmi­giano-Reggiano is one of the world’s oldest and most widely copied cheeses. Used primarily for grating and cooking, it is rich, spicy and sharp with a golden interior and a hard oily rind. It should not be overly salty or bitter. Reggiano, as it is known, is produced only from mid-April to mid-November. It is shaped into huge wheels of about 80 pounds (36 kilos) each, with the name stenciled re­peatedly around the rind. Imitation Parmesan is produced in the United States, Argentina and elsewhere, but none can match the distinctive flavor of freshly grated Reggiano.

Pecorino Romano is a sheep’s-milk cheese from central and southern Italy containing approximately 35% fat. Romano is very brittle and sharper than other grating cheeses, with a “sheepy” tang. Its light, grainy interior is whiter than Parmesan or Asiago. It is packed in large cylinders with a yel­low rind. Romano is often substituted for, or combined with, Parmesan in cooking, but it is also good eaten with olives, sausages and red wine.

Goat’s-Milk Cheeses

Because of their increasing popularity, cheeses made from goat’s milk deserve a few words of their own. Al- though goats give less milk than cows, their milk is higher in fat and protein and richer and more concentrated in flavor. Cheeses mule with goat’s milk have a sharp, tangy flavor. They may range in texture from very soft and fresh to very hard, depending on age.goats-milk-all

Chevre (French for “goat”) refers to small, soft, creamy cheeses produced in a variety of shapes: cones, disks, pyramids or logs. Chevres are often coated with ash, herbs or seasonings. They are excellent for cook­ing and complement a wide variety of flavors. Unfortunately, they have a short shelf life, perhaps only two weeks. Cheese labeled pur chevre must be made with 100% goat’s milk, while others may be a mixture of cow’s and goat’s milk.

The finest goat’s milk cheeses usually come from France. Preferred brands include lkicheron, exported from France in 5-pound (2-kilo) logs; Ghevrotin, one of the mildest; and Montrachet, a tangy soft cheese from the Burgundy wine region. Spurred on by the increased popularity of chevre, a few American producers have developed excellent cheeses in a wide variety of shapes and styles.

Cheese Varieties

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Cheeses can lie classified by country of origin, ripening method, fat content or texture. Here we classify fine cheeses by texture and have adopted 3 cate­gories for describe and explain the qualities of cheese: fresh or unripened, soft, semi-soft.fromage1

Fresh or Unripened Cheeses

Fresh cheeses are uncooked and unripened. Referred to as frontage blanc or fromage frais in French, they are generally mild and creamy with a tart tanginess They should not taste acidic or bitter. Fresh cheeses have a moisture content of 40% to 80% and are highly perishable.

Cream cheese is a soft cow’s-milk cheese from the United States containing approximately 35% fat. It is available in various-sized solid white blocks or whipped and flavored. It is used throughout the kitchen in baking, dips, dressings and confections and is popular as a spread for bagels and toast.

Feta is a semi-soft Greek or Italian product made from sheep’s and/or goat’s milk. It is a white, flaky cheese that is pickled (but not ripened) and stored in brine water, giving it a shelf life of four to six flavor is useful in both sweet and savory sauces as well as desserts. It is also: eaten plain, with fresh fruit, or spread on bread and sprinkled with cocoa a sugar.

Mozzarella is a firm Italian cheese traditionally made with water buffalo’s milk (today, cow’s milk is more common) and containing 40% to 45% fat. Moz­zarella becomes elastic when melted and is well known as “pizza cheese.’ Fresh mozzarella is excellent in salads or topped simply with olive oil and herbs. It is a very mild white cheese best eaten within hours of production Commercial mozzarella is rather bland and rubbery and is best reserved for cooking, for which it may be purchased already shredded.

Ricotta is a soft Italian cheese, similar to American cottage cheese, made from the whey left when other cow’s-milk cheeses are produced. It contains only 4% to 10% fat. It is white or ivory in color and fluffy, with a small grain and sweet flavor. Ricotta is an important ingredient in many pasta dishes and desserts.

Soft Cheeses

Soft cheeses are characterized by their thin skins and creamy centers. They are among the most delicious and popular of cheeses. They ripen quickly and are at their peak for only a few days, sometimes less. Moisture content ranges from 50% to 75%.

Bel paese is a 20th-century Italian creation made from cow’s milk and con­taining approximately 50% fat. It is mild and creamy with a fruity flavor. The inside is yellowish, and the outside is brown or gray. Bel paese is excellent for snacking and melts easily.baked-brie-01-af1

Brie is a rind-ripened French cheese made with cow’s milk and contain­ing about 60% fat. Brie is made in round, flat disks weighing 2 or 4 pounds; it is coated with a bloomy white rind. At the peak of, ripeness, it is creamy and rich, with a texture oozes. Selecting a properly ripened Brie is a matter of judgment and experience. Select a cheese that is bulging a bit inside its rind; there should be  just the beginning of a brown coloring on the rind. If underripe, Brie will be bland with a hard, chalky core. Once the cheese is cut, it will not ripen any further. If over­ripe, Brie will have a brownish rind that may be gummy or sagging and will smell strongly of ammonia. The rind is edible, but trim it off if preferred. The classic after-dinner cheese, Brie is also used in soups, sauces and hors d’oeuvres.

Boursin is a triple-cream cow’s-milk cheese from France containing ap­proximately 75% fat. Boursin is usually flavored with peppers, herbs or garlic. It is rindless, with a smooth, creamy texture, and is packed in small, foil-wrapped cylinders. Boursin is a good breakfast cheese and a welcome addi­tion to any cheese board. It is also a popular filling for baked chicken.

Camembert is a rind-ripened cheese from France containing approxi­mately 45% fat. Bavaria also produces a Camembert, though of a somewhat lesser quality. Camembert is creamy, like Brie, but milder. It is shaped in small round or oval disks and is coated with a white bloomy rind. Selecting a properly ripened Camembert is similar to selecting a Brie, but Camembert will become overripe and ammoniated even more quickly than Brie. Camem­bert is an excellent dessert or after-dinner cheese and goes particularly well with fruit.

Semi-Soft Cheeses

Semi-soft cheeses include many mild, buttery cheeses with smooth, sliceable textures. Some semi-soft cheeses are also known as monastery or Trappist Cheeses because their development is traced to monasteries, some recipes hav­ing originated during the Middle Ages. The moisture content of semi-soft cheeses ranges from 40% to 50%.gorgonzola-naturale

Doux de Montague is a cow’s-milk cheese from France containing ap­proximately 45% fat. Produced in the foothills of the Pyrenees, it is also re­ferred to as pain de Pyrenees. Doux de Montagne is pale yellow with ir­regular holes and a mellow, sweet, nutty flavor. It is sometimes studded With green peppercorns, which provide a tangy flavor contrast. It is usu­ally shaped in large, slightly squashed spheres and coated with brown wax. Doux de Montagne is good before dinner and for snacking.

Fontina is a cow’s-milk cheese from Italy’s Piedmont region con­taining approximately 45% fat. The original, known as fontina Val D’Aosta. has a dark gold, crusty rind; the pale gold, dense interior has a few small holes. It is nutty and rich. The original must have a purple trademark stamped on the rind. Imitation   fontinas   (known   as fontal or fontinella) are pro­duced in Denmark. France, Swe­den, the United States and other regions of Italy. They tend to be softer, with less depth of flavor, and may have a rubbery texture. Real fontina is a good after-dinner cheese;  the  imitations are often added to sauces, soups or sandwiches.

Gorgonzola is a blue-veined cow’s-milk cheese from Italy containing 48% fat. Gorgonzola has a white or ivory interior with bluish-green veins. It is creamier than Stilton or Roquefort, with a somewhat more pungent, spicy, earthy flavor. White gorgonzola has no veins but a similar flavor, while aged gorgonzola is drier and crumbly with a very strong, sharp flavor. The milder gorgonzolas are excellent with fresh peaches or pears or crumbled in a salad. Gorgonzola is also used in sauces and in the torta con basilico, a cakelike cheese loaf composed of lay­ers of cheese, fresh basil and pine nuts.

Gouda is a Dutch cheese containing approximately 48% fat. Gouda is sold in various-sized wheels covered with red or yellow wax. The cheese is yellow with a few small holes and a mild, buttery flavor. Gouda may be sold soon after production, or it may be aged for several months, resulting in a firmer, more flavorful cheese. Gouda is widely popular for snacking and in fondue.havarti

Havarti is a cow’s-milk monastery-style cheese from Denmark containing 45% to 60% fat. Havarti is also known as Danish Tilsit or by the brand name Dofino. Pale yellow with many small, irregular holes, it is sold in small rounds, rectangular blocks or loaves. Havarti has a mild flavor and creamy tex­ture. It is often flavored with dill, caraway seeds or peppers. Havarti is very popular for snacking and in sandwiches.

Port du Salut is a monastery cow’s-milk product from France containing approximately 50% fat. Port du Salut (also known as Port Salut) is smooth, rich and savoiy. It is shaped in thick wheels with a dense, pale yellow interior and an edible, bright orange rind. The Danish version is known as Esrom. One of the best and most authentic Port du Saluts has the initials S.A.F.R. stamped on the rind. Lesser-quality brands may be bland and rubbery. It is popular for break­fast and snacking, especially with fruit.

Roquefort is a blue-veined sheep’s-milk cheese from France containing approximately 45% fat. One of the oldest cheeses, Roquefort is intensely pun­gent with a rich, salty flavor and strong aroma. It is a white paste with veins:] of blue mold and a thin natural rind shaped into thick, foil-wrapped cylin­ders. Roquefort is always aged for at least three months in the limestone caves of Mount Combalou. Since 1926, no producer outside this region can legally use the name Roquefort or even “Roquefort-style.” Roquefort is an ex­cellent choice for serving before or after dinner and is, of course, essential for Roquefort dressing.

Stilton is a blue-veined cow’s-milk cheese from Great Britain containing 45% fat. Stilton is one of the oldest and grandest cheeses in the world. It has a white or pale yellow interior with evenly spaced blue veins. Stilton’s distinctive flavor is pungent, rich and tangy, combining the best of blues and Cheddars. It is aged in cool ripening rooms for four to six months to develop the blue veining; it is then sold in tall cylinders with a crusty, ed­ible rind. Stilton should be wrapped in a cloth dampened with salt water and stored at cool temperatures, but not refrigerated. It is best served alone, with plain crackers, dried fruit or vintage port.

Natural Cheeses

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Cheese (Fr. frontage, It. fromaggio) is one of the oldest and most widely used foods known to man. It is served alone or  as a principal ingredient in or an accompaniment to countless dishes. Cheese is commonly used in  kitchens, appearing in everything from breakfast to snacks to desserts.cheeseglamour

Literally hundreds of natural cheeses are produced worldwide. Although their shapes, ages and flavors vary according to local preferences and tradi­tions, all natural cheeses are produced in the same basic fashion as has been used for centuries. Each starts with a mammal’s milk; cows, goats and sheep are the most commonly used.

The milk proteins (known as casein) are coag­ulated with the addition of an enzyme, usually rennet, which is found in calves’ stomachs. As the milk coagulates, it separates into solid curds and liq­uid whey. After draining off the whey, either the curds are made into fresh cheese, such as ricotta or cottage cheese, or the curds are further processed by cutting, kneading and cooking.

The resulting substance, known as “green cheese,” is packed into molds to drain. Salt or special bacteria may lie added to the molded cheeses, which are then allowed to age or ripen under con­trolled conditions to develop the desired texture, color and flavor.

Cheeses are a product of their environment, which is why most fine cheeses cannot be reproduced outside their native locale. The breed and feed of the milk animal, the wild spores and molds in the air and even the wind currents in a storage area can affect the manner in which a cheese develops. (Roque­fort, for example, develops its distinctive flavor from aging in particular caves filled with crosscurrents of cool, moist air.)

Smile cheeses develop a natural rind or surface because of the application of bacteria (bloomy rind) or by repeated washing with brine (washed rind). Most natural rinds may be eaten if desired. Other cheeses are coated with an inedible wax rind to prevent moisture loss. Fresh cheeses have no rind what­soever.

Moisture and fat contents are good indicators of a cheese’s texture and shelf lite The higher the moisture content, the softer the product and the more per­ishable it will be. Low-moisture cheeses may be used for grating and will keep for several weeks if properly stored. (Reduced water activity levels prohibit bacterial growth.) Fat content ranges from low fat (less than 20% fat) to dou­ble cream (at least 60% fat) and triple cream (at least 72% fat). Cheeses with a high fat content will be creamier and have a richer flavor and texture than low­ fat products.baked-brie-01-af

Most cheeses contain high percentages of fat and protein. Cheese is also rich in calcium, phosphorus and vitamin A. As animal products, natural cheeses contain cholesterol, Today, many low-fat, even nonfat, processed cheeses are available. Sodium has also been reduced or eliminated from some modern products.

Making Mozzarella

In Italy, mozzarella is made every day; it is meant to be consumed just as often. Before there was refrigeration, the balls of moz­zarella were stored in well water to keep them cool, which is where the tradition originated of storing fresh mozzarella in liquid.

Once the milk is coagulated and the curds are cut, the mass is slowly stirred to en­hance the whey’s expulsion. A few hours later, when the curds are mature, they are re­moved from the whey, chopped or shredded and then mixed with hot water.mozzarella

To test the exact amount of maturity, a handful of curds is dipped into a bucket of hot water for 10 seconds. When the curds are removed, they should be kneaded briefly and then, holding the mass with two hands, it should be pulled and stretched out to deter­mine its maturity. When it is exactly ready to be strung, it can be stretched as thin and opaque as tissue paper. At this point, small amounts of curd are dumped into a small vat and stirred with hot water using a paddle. This is known as “stringing” the cheese lie-cause as the curds are mixed with the water they begin to melt somewhat and become stringy. The more the cheese is stirred, the longer the strings are stretched.

Eventually, all the strings come together to make a large mass of satiny-smooth cheese. In Italian, the word fibre means “to string”; therefore, all cheeses that are strung are members of the pasta filata family.

When stringing is complete, the cheese is ready to be shaped and hand-formed into balls. The balls are tossed immediately into vats of cool water so they will maintain the desired shapes. When cool, the balls are im­mersed in brine solution and then wrapped in parchment paper

Meat, Fish, and Egg Eating the Mediterranean Way

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In the traditional Mediterranean diet, beef, as well as veal, pork, fish, poultry, and rich dairy products like cheese, was more often used for flavoring rather than as the main event of a meal.

Nestled in a large platter of rice and vegetables, one might find a few small pieces of chicken or shrimp. A prodigious pot of pasta sauce might contain a few clams, some prosciutto, or perhaps some ground meat.meat-in-rice

Occasionally a whole fish poached with vegetables and herbs will form the core of a meal, and various types of shellfish are present in small quantities in the diets of most Mediterranean countries. A Turkish or Greek shish kebab typically includes cubes of skewered lamb, but plenty of vegetables, too.

Eating some meat and dairy products certainly makes good sense. High in nutrients, including certain vitamins and minerals, meat and dairy products also add depth, dimension, and flavor to plant foods. Even red meat can be a sensible part of a healthy diet, if the cuts of meat are lean and the portions small, especially for high-fat meat and fullfat dairy products, which contain high amounts of saturated fat.tomato-watercress-l

Eating these foods in moderation is ideal because it guarantees you the nutritional benefits of these animal foods without the excess saturated fat, not to mention excess calories.

In addition to fish (weekly consumption is recommended), you can choose a serving of another source of lean meat about once a week, if desired. Serving sizes are specified in a general range of 1 to 4 ounces but they must be individualized according to dietary needs of everyone.

You don’t need to consume your entire week’s allowance of fish, lean beef, chicken, veal, or whatever you choose at one sitting. An ounce chopped and added to soup one day, another ounce or two added to rice or pasta a few days later, and a few more ounces in a casserole at the end of the week is probably a more authentically Mediterranean way to eat animal foods anyway.

The same goes for cheese-a few shreds here, a sprinkling there. A little highfat cheese, which is highly flavored, goes a long way. Although the Mediterranean Diet Pyramid specifies lower-fat cheeses (such as mozzarella made with part-skim milk) be consumed optionally on a weekly basis or high-fat cheese be consumed monthly (also optional), that month’s serving can easily be portioned out over a number of satisfying meals.

Fish is the one animal meat we recommend consuming more than Americans are generally getting-up to 8 ounces of cooked fish per week-especially the fattier fishes like salmon, mackerel, trout, herring, and tuna. Fish contains omega-3 fatty acids that offer many health benefits (more on omega-3 fatty acids later in this chapter).

cooked-fis

If you choose to avoid fish because of concerns for possible contaminants, that’s fine. Our fish recommendation is optional. Just be sure to include other sources of omega-3 fatty acids such as flaxseed, walnuts, and even strawberries.

And what about eggs, those high-cholesterol villains we all thought we knew to avoid? Actually , dietary cholesterol isn’t a threat to the heart health of most people. There are indeed some who are particularly sensitive to dietary cholesterol, usually a genetic condition.

Egg yolks do contain some saturated fat, which is the main reason that we generally suggest a moderate intake of four or fewer eggs per week (including eggs used in cooking). By the way, the egg white is virtually cholesterol- and fat-free, so indulge at will in this high-protein portion of the egg.

Braising meats

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Braised meats are first browned and then cooked in a liquid that serves as a sauce for the meat. A well-prepared braised dish has the rich flavor of the meal in the sauce and the moisture and flavor of the sauce in the meat .It should be almost fork tender but not falling apart. The meat should have an attractive color from the initial browning and final glazing.

braised-meats

Selecting Meats to Braise

Braising can be used for tender cuts (such as those from the loin or rib) or tougher cuts (such as those from the chuck or shank). Any meat to be braised should be well marbled with an ample fat content in order to produce a moist finished product.

If tender cuts such as veal chops or pork chops are braised, the finished dish has a uniquely different flavor and texture than if the meats were cooked by a dry-heat method. Tender cuts require shorter cooking times than tougher cuts because lengthy cooking is not needed to break down connective tissue.

More often, braising is used with tougher cuts that are tenderized by the long, moist cooking process. Cuts from the chuck and shank are popular choices, as they are very flavorful and contain relatively large amounts of col­lagen, which adds richness to the finished product.

Large pieces of meat can be braised, then carved like a roast. Portion con­trol cuts and diced meats can also be braised.

Seasoning Meats to be Braised

The seasoning and overall flavor of a braised dish is largely a function of the quality of the cooking liquid and the mirepoix, herbs, spices and other ingredi­ents that season the meat as it cooks. However, braised meats can be marinated before they are cooked to tenderize them and add flavor. The marinade is then sometimes incorporated into the braising liquid. Salt and pepper may be added to the flour if the meat is dredged before it is browned, or the meat may be sea­soned directly (although the salt may draw out moisture and inhibit browning).seasoning-meat

A standard sachet and a tomato product are usually added at the start of cooking. The tomato product adds flavor and color to the finished sauce as well as acid to tenderize the meat during the cooking process. Final seasoning should not take place until cooking is complete and the sauce will not be re­duced further.

Cooking Temperatures

Braised meats are always browned before simmering. As a general rule, smaller cuts are floured before browning; larger cuts are not. Flouring seals the meat, promotes even browning and adds body to the sauce that accompanies the meat. Whether floured or not, the meat is browned in fat. After browning, white meats should be golden to amber in color; red meats should be dark brown. Do not brown the meat too quickly at too high a temperature since it is important to develop a well-caramelized surface. The caramelized surface adds color and flavor to the final product.

The meat and the braising liquid are brought to a boil over direct heat. The temperature is then reduced below boiling, and the pot is covered. Cooking can be finished in the oven or on the stove top. The oven provides gentle, even heat without the risk of scorching. If the braise is finished on the stove top, proper temperatures must be maintained carefully throughout the cooking process, and great care must be taken to prevent scorching or burning. Lower temperatures and longer cooking times result in more even cooking and thorough penetra­tion of the cooking liquid, providing a more flavorful final product.

Finishing Braised Meats

Near the end of the cooking process, the lid may be removed from oven-paised meats. Finishing braised meats without a cover serves two purposes. First, the meat can be glazed by basting it often. (As the basting liquid evapo­rates, the meat is browned and a strongly flavored glaze is formed.) Second, removing the lid allows the cooking liquid to reduce, thickening it and con­centrating its flavors for use as a sauce.

Determining Doneness

Braised meats are done when they are tender. A fork inserted into the meat should meet little resistance. Properly braised meats should remain intact and: not fall apart when handled gently.

Braised meats that fall apart or are stringy are overcooked. If the finished product is tough, it was probably undercooked or cooked at too high a tem­perature. If the entire dish lacks flavor, the meat may not have been properly browned or the cooking liquid may have been poorly seasoned.

braised-steak-mushrooms

Procedure for Braising Meats

The liquid used for braising is usually thickened in one of three ways:

1. With a roux added at the start of the cooking process; the roux thickens the sauce as the meat cooks.

2. Prethickened before the meat is added.

3. Thickened after the meat is cooked either by pureeing the mirepoix or by using roux, arrowroot or cornstarch.

The procedure for braising meats includes variations for whichever thick­ening method is selected.

1. Heat a small amount of oil in a heavy pan.

2. Dredge the meat to be braised in seasoned flour, if desired, and add it to the oil.

3. Brown the meat well on all sides and remove from the pan.

4. Add a mirepoix to the pan and caramelize it well. If using roux, it should be added at this time.

5. Add the appropriate stock or sauce so that when the meat is returned to the pan the liquid comes approximately one third of the way up the side of the meat.

6.      Add aromatics and seasonings.

7.     Return the meat to the sauce. Tightly cover the pot and bring it to a simmer. Cook slowly either on the stove top or by placing the covered pot directly in an oven at 25O°F-300°F (120°C-150°C).

8. Cook the item, basting or turning it often so that all sides of the meat benefit from the moisture and flavor of the sauce.

9. When the meat is done, remove it from the pan and hold it in a warm place while the sauce is finished.

10. The sauce may be reduced on the stove top to intensify its flavors. If the meat was braised in a stock, the stock may be thickened using a roux, arrowroot or cornstarch. Strain the sauce or, if desired, puree the mirepoix and other ingredients and return them to the sauce. Adjust the sauce’s consistency as desired.