Wizard Recipes

Butter is a common ingredient in most of our cooking. It is absolutely crucial in French baking, in fact, in any French cooking. But the majority of western cuisines also choose butter as the principal cooking fat. Oriental cuisines generally do not. Only Indian cooks use it extensively in its clarified form, ghee.

While perishable, butter doesn’t spoil nearly as quickly as milk. When Indian cooks remove its milk solids (by clarifying), they don’t even need to refrigerate butter. In clarified form its shelflife is as long as that of any vegetable oil.

The major problem posed by butter in our culture today is its high saturated fat and cholesterol content. (The fat in butter is called butterfat, a chemically distinct type among fats). Many U.S. households have banned butter from their kitchens with regrets, substituting margarine or oil.

How do we obtain our butter? First the milk processor pasteurizes, then ages the cream for at least 8 hours and finally churns it into butter by physical agitation. Aging the cream allows the milk fat to crystallize and weakens the fat globules.

The forceful agitation of churning breaks each tiny globule’s delicate membrane and allows the globules to clump together into a solid, that we call butter. The churning action expels a byproduct liquid, that the industry calls buttermilk. This is not the kind of buttermilk we drink, it only has the same name.

After the cream becomes butter, it goes through washing and then a mechanical manipulation (something like kneading bread dough) to reduce the size of the fat crystals. This makes it softer and more spreadable.

Butter oxidizes (turns rancid) at room temperature relatively fast. Chilling slows down the oxidizing process. Antioxidants would help reduce rancidity, but U.S. law restricts adding anything but salt and a coloring agent to butter. Salt extends its shelflife, coloring enhances its appearance.

Salting butter is a habit left over from the days before refrigerators. By the time refrigeration was common, people were used to the flavor of salted butter, and processors encouraged its use because it extended the shelflife. The amount of salt they use in butter is 1.5 to 1.8 percent (about 1¾ teaspoons in a pound or 450 g).

The most common coloring agent is annatto, a natural reddish-yellow dye. Without coloring, most butter is too white to look like the real thing. The natural color depends on what the cows, who produce the cream, eat so in some seasons they must use coloring to boost the yellowness-or consumers start complaining.

That 15 to 16 percent water you see in the table is the reason butter sizzles when you heat it in the sauté pan. The water boils in the hot pan, turns into steam and tries to escape from its covering blanket of fat. The bubbles of steam pop and they make a symphony of sound that we hear as sizzle. Oil, lard and vegetable shortening never sizzle in a hot pan because they are free of moisture.

Don’t confuse unsalted butter with sweet cream butter. The sweet cream label refers to the fact that they started the churning process with sweet instead of soured cream. North American processors don’t use soured cream to make butter, but the French and several other Europeans do as consumers prefer it. They let the cream sour slightly before churning it.

The difference in flavor between the two types of butter is slight-the European style has a slight tanginess. No one knows why we still retain the outdated term sweet cream butter, but it has nothing to do with its salt content.

Butter blends and dairy spreads are a combination of butter and vegetable oils. Mixing oil in butter reduces the price since oil is far cheaper than butter, but it also reduces the cholesterol while maintaining some butter flavor. Don’t be fooled-total fat and calories remain about the same. In low-fat spreads, water replaces some of butter’s fat, reducing not only fat but calories, cholesterol and flavor

Margarine

Margarine is not a dairy product but since so many people substitute margarine for butter, this is a good place for its discussion.

A food scientist in France, H. Mège-Mouriès, developed margarine in 1869 as a substitute for butter in case of unexpected dairy shortage. He produced it by churning together high-quality beef fat, called suet, and milk, but production was limited because of shortages of suet.

In 1902 W. Normann, a German scientist improved on the technique, and was able to bypass suet and harden oil with the addition of hydrogen (this is the process called

hydrogenation), which changed liquid oil into a solid fat that we know as today’s margarine.

Margarine is mainly oil and water. The processor uses huge hydrogenation converter drums with a nickel catalyst at 200°C (392°F) and violent agitation in contact with a flow of hydrogen gas. Then they cool and filter the resulting margarine to remove traces of the nickel catalyst.