QUICK BREADS Part I

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As their name implies, quick breads are faster to prepare than their yeast-leavened “cousins.” Thanks to fastacting leavening agents, these simple breads don’t require a rising period. Just mix them up and pop them into the oven.

quick-breads1

Favorite breads from this wide-ranging category include biscuits, muffins, coffee cakes, popovers, pancakes, and waffles.

RISING  TO THE  OCCASION

Most quick breads rely on chemical leavenings, such as baking powder or baking soda, to make them rise.

Baking soda is an alkali that forms carbon dioxide gas bubbles when combined with an acidic ingredient, such as buttermilk, yogurt, chocolate, brown sugar, or molasses. Store baking soda in an airtight container in a cool, dry place for up to one year.

Baking powder is a combination of baking soda and a dry acid, such as cream of tartar. Most commercial baking powders are double-acting: They start to produce gas bubbles as soon as they are moistened, powder can stay potent for up to six months if stored airtight in a cool, dry place.

Buttermilk was originally the liquid left over from churning butter, but it is now made from milk to which bacterial cultures have been added. It is a favorite baking ingredient; its acidity balances sugar’s sweetness, and it reacts with baking soda to give baked goods a fine crumb. It’s a good ingredient to have on hand in your refrigerator.

buttermilk

Dehydrated buttermilk powder is also available. Reconstitute it according to the package directions. In a pinch, a good substitute for buttermilk is sour cream (not reduced-fat) or plain lowfat yogurt blended with an equal amount of whole milk.

You can also use soured milk: Place 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice or distilled white vinegar in a glass measuring cup, then pour in enough whole milk to equal 1 cup. Stir and let stand for five minutes to thicken.

MIXING  IT  RIGHT

Always mix quick breads with a light hand. Simply combine the dry ingredients, add the liquids, and stir. Before starting, be sure your baking powder or baking soda is active. To test soda or powder, stir 1 teaspoon into 1 cup of boiling water; it should bubble and foam vigorously.

All-purpose flour makes tender quick breads. Except for recipes in which chilled butter or margarine is cut into the flour mixture, batters are easier to mix and bake better if all the ingredients are at room temperature.

After adding the liquids to the flour mixture, stir just until the batter is blended. If any lumps remain, they will disappear during baking. Overmixing will cause the bread to be tough, dense, and full of tunnels.

mixing-dough

Biscuit dough is usually kneaded just a few times to blend the mixture together. Lastly, quick breads should be baked as soon as the batter is mixed, while the leavening still has its rising power.

Milk

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Milk has a wide variety of uses and thus is one of the most basic items found in kitchens worldwide. It is consumed as a beverage, poured on cereals, and used in many different ways in cooking.glass-milk

In response to consumers with different nutritional demands, modern food science has made many different types of fluid milk available. Although milk can be less inviting to people who are concerned with their weight because of its high fat content, some types of milk contain no fat at all.

Whole milk - Containing 3 1/2 percent milk fat, this type of milk is often simply labeled “milk” or “vitamin D milk” if that particular vitamin has been added. Of all types of milk, whole milk is among the highest in fat and calories. One cup has 150 calories and approximately 8 grams of fat.

Reduced-fat milk - Often referred to as two percent, this type of milk has had some milk fat removed from it. Two percent reflects the amount of fat in the milk by weight. It does not refer to the percentage of calories from fat. One cup of 2 percent milk has 130 calories and 5 grams of fat.

Low-fat milk - Also known as 1 percent milk, this type of milk contains about 100 calories and 2.6 grams of fat in 1 cup.

Nonfat or skim milk - Skim milk, which contains less than 0.5 percent milk fat, is now more often labeled nonfat milk. It contains the same amount of nutrients, such as calcium, as its higher fat counterparts, but it has no fat and just 90 calories.

Buttermilk - Buttermilk was once the residue left from churning butter, but today’s version is made from adding a lactic acid culture to milk. The result is far less rich than the original “natural” buttermilk, but it still retains the thick texture and acidic tang of old.glass-of-buttermilk1

Some manufacturers add flecks of butter for an authentic look or stabilizers to prevent separation. Because of its name, buttermilk may sound high in fat. Yet, in most instances it is not.

Buttermilk derives its fat content from the milk used to make it, and in the United States low-fat or nonfat milk is used most often. Calories and fat in buttermilk depend on what type of milk was used to make it. Check the label for fat content.

Lactose-reduced and lactose-free milk - These products are tailored to people who have trouble digesting lactose, a sugar found in milk. An enzyme called lactase is added during the processing of this milk.

The result is that lactose in the milk is reduced by at least 70 percent (lactosereduced) or up to 99.9 percent (lactose-free). Calories and fat in lactose-reduced and lactose-free milk depend on what type of milk was cultured.

Ultrapasteurized milk (UHT) - This milk has been popular in Europe for many years, but it has only recently appeared in U.S. supermarkets. The “ultra-heat treatment” (UHT) sterilizes milk by quickly heating it, sometimes as high as 300 degrees Fahrenheit, and then quickly cooling it before packaging it in vacuum-packed, aseptic containers.

UHT milk can be stored for 2 to 3 months without refrigeration, until opened. Once opened, UHT milk should be refrigerated and quickly consumed. It can spoil, but unlike other milk, it does not curdle as a warning sign of spoilage.

The ultra-heat process makes the milk taste slightly scalded, but it is thought that the treatment does not substantially affect the nutrient value. The amount of fat and calories in UHT milk depends on the type of milk from which it was made.42-17248304

Flavored milk - Flavorings, sugar, or other sweeteners are added to fluid milk. Although some milk is flavored with strawberry, vanilla, and even peanut butter flavorings, chocolate is used most commonly.

Flavored milks are higher in calories than their unflavored counterparts. Calories and fat in flavored milk range from 150 calories and no fat for 1 cup of chocolate milk made from skim milk to more than 210 calories and 8 grams of fat for 1 cup of whole chocolate milk.

When purchasing flavored milks, look for products that are made from skim or reduced-fat milk. Avoid those labeled “premium.” They often are made from whole milk, which is high in fat.

Preparation Tips

It is easy to overcook milk when heating it. When milk is heated to a temperature that is too high, its proteins clump together and curds appear in the milk. When heating milk, always use low heat and stir frequently.

Using a double boiler when heating milk also helps prevent overheating. Anyone who has ever had homemade hot cocoa knows that heated milk can develop a “skin” (a thickened surface). An easy way to prevent this is to mix a little cornstarch into the milk before heating it.heating-milk1

Serving Suggestions

Nonfat milk has the least amount of fat and calories but still provides all of milk’s nutrients. Many people prefer its lighter texture and taste to the heaviness of whole milk. Even the staunchest fan of whole milk can easily be converted to using this healthier alternative. Make the change gradually.

Start by mixing equal parts of whole milk with 2 percent milk. Then, in stepwise progression, use just 2 percent, next a combination of 2 percent and 1 percent, then just 1 percent, then a combination of 1 percent and skim milk, and eventually only skim milk.

If you dislike skim milk, 1 percent or 2 percent milk is a reasonable option, especially if it keeps you drinking milk. Buttermilk can be substituted for cream in many recipes: a half cup of buttermilk has 1 gram of fat, but the same serving of light cream has 31 grams.

Whenever possible, lower the amount of fat in a recipe by substituting a lowerfat milk. A cream soup made with low-fat milk is just as rich tasting, especially if you thicken the soup with a bit of flour. A cup of cocoa made with skim milk provides more nutrients and fewer calories than the average chocolate dessert, and it is just as effective for satisfying a sweet tooth.

Cultured milk products

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All cultured (also called fermented) milk products have varying amounts of lactic acid, which gives them their pleasingly tart, slightly tangy flavor. There’s a difference between milk product fermentation and yeast fermentation that some people confuse.

dairy-products

Milk product fermentation is by bacteria that produce lactic acid, while yeast (a completely different microorganism) convert sugar to alcohol in such things as bread dough, brewing beer and wine.

Product Remarks
Yogurt Two different cultures of lactic acid-producing bacteria ferment it. May start with whole, low-fat or non-fat milk. Fermented to 0.9% acidity (pH 4.4). Slow fermentation at cooler temperature results in smoother, creamier texture, more costly product.
Sour cream Two sets of live cultures added to light cream. One culture ferments, second culture produces flavor. Fermented to 0.5% acidity.
Buttermilk Same culture ferments it as sour cream but instead of cream, low-fat milk is used. Fermented to 0.8% acidity.

Today’s yogurt comes in mind-boggling array of flavors. Processors add fruit purée or fruit syrup (15 to 18 percent) either leaving it on the bottom of the container before culturing (sundae-style) or they quickly blend it into cultured yogurt just before chilling (Swiss style). Stabilizers, that also thicken it, make up about half a percent of commercial yogurt.

You can get fooled into thinking that nonfat yogurt is your perfect diet food, but the high sugar content ups the calories considerably. The amount of sugar ranges from 7 to 15 percent, but in some brands it is as high as 25 percent, twice the amount than in a can of soda. If your goal is diet food, you are better off to buy unflavored yogurt, then add your own sweetener or flavorings.

frozen-yogurt

Frozen yogurt is simply Swiss-style yogurt that the processor quickly freezes. It comes in packages like ice cream and you serve it like ice cream. Other cultured products less commonly available are sour half-and-half, which is a lowerfat sour cream, and crème fraiche, that cooks use like cream in French marinades or sauces, where they prefer a thicker consistency and slightly tart flavor. Crème fraiche is easy to make at home.

Start with heavy cream, inoculate it by adding a little cultured sour cream or buttermilk, and let the mixture ferment for a day at room temperature until thickened. The result is just barely sour, with about 0.2 percent lactic acid.

Two interesting cultured products that never made it to North America are kefir and koumiss. Both of these originated with the nomads in the Steppes of Central Asia around the year 1000. The kefir you find in health-food stores is a beverage that bears no resemblance whatsoever to the original, only the name is the same.

koumiss

In both kefir and koumiss, two cultures ferment simultaneously, a lactic acid-producing bacteria and an alcohol-producing yeast that live in symbiotic relationship. The result is a sour, tangy alcoholic beverage that Russians and some Eastern Europeans are very fond of. It fizzes like beer and is mildly intoxicating.

The alcohol content is fairly low, ranging from 1 to 2.5 percent, much lower than beer. The acid content is 0.7 to 1.8 percent, quite a bit more tart than our yogurt. The difference between kefir and koumiss is what they begin with. They produce kefir from cow, goat or sheep milk, and koumiss from mare’s milk (though originally, before horses, the nomads used camel’s milk).

Large herds of mares graze peacefully in Russia like

cows in Wisconsin, and farmers on these horse dairies get up as early as Wisconsin farmers do to milk their herd of horses. Due to shortages of mare’s milk now, some Russian processors switched to cow’s milk to make koumiss. Even if they use cow’s milk for both koumiss and kefir, different live cultures produce the two, and they taste different.

There’s nothing like a sixpack of ice-cold koumiss on a hot summer day! Natives in the Himalayas use another fermented milk drink similar to kefir called airan.

They make this from the milk of nak (the female companion of a yak). It is hard to find airan in North America, but it is supposedly an unusual-flavored, somewhat fatty beverage that takes acquired taste buds to love