Wizard Recipes

BUTTER is the fatty constituent of milk. It is obtained by skimming or separating the cream from milk and churning it in order to make the particles of fat adhere to one another. Butter is used largely in the household as an article of food, for it is one of the most appetizing and digestible forms of fat.

To supply the demand for butter, it is produced domestically in the home and on farms and commercially in dairies and large establishments. The principle of all churns used for butter making is practically the same. They simply agitate the cream so that the butter-fat globules in it are brought together in masses of such size as to enable the butter maker to separate them from the buttermilk.

Butter is seasoned, or salted, to give it a desirable flavor and to improve its keeping qualities; it is washed, or worked, in order to distribute the salt evenly, to separate from it as much of the curd and other non-fatty constituents of the cream as can be conveniently removed, to bring it into a compact, waxy mass, and to give it texture.

The United States authorities have set a standard for the composition of butter, which allows this product to contain not more than 16 per cent. of water and requires it to have at least 82.5 per cent. of butter fat

While some housewives make it a practice to use butter in cooking of all kinds, there are uses in which other fats are preferable; or, in case butter is desired, there are certain points to be observed in its use.

For instance, butter is rendered less digestible by cooking it at a high temperature, as in frying or sauteing; also, it cannot be used to any extent for the frying of foods, as it burns very readily. If it is used for sauteing, the dish is made much more expensive than is necessary, so that in most cases a cheaper fat should be employed for this purpose.

In addition, a point to remember is that this fat should not be used to grease the pans in which cakes and hot breads are baked unless it is first melted, because the milk contained in the butter burns easily; after it is melted, only the top fat should be used. When butter is desired for very rich cakes and for pastry, it is usually washed in cold water to remove the milk.

To neutralize the sour milk contained in butter that is used for baking purposes, a little

soda is sometimes employed. Further economy can be exercised in the use of butter if a little

thought is given to the matter. For instance, when butter is melted and poured over meat or fish that has been broiled or over vegetables that have been cooked in a plain way, much of it usually remains in the dish and is wasted. Such butter can be utilized again.

Since butter undergoes a change when it is cooked, it should be mixed with cooked foods to flavor them, rather than be subjected to the temperature necessary for cooking.

When butter is used for spreading sandwiches, it usually will be found advisable to soften the butter by creaming it with a spoon, but it should never be melted for this purpose.

SERVING BUTTER

When butter is used for the table, some consideration must be given to the serving of it. Probably the most usual way of serving butter is to place a slice of it on a plate and then pass the plate with a knife to each person at the table.

The advantage of this method is that each person can take the amount desired and thus prevent waste. However, a still more desirable way of serving butter that is to be passed is to cut it into small cubes or squares or to shape it into small balls and then serve it with a fork or a butter knife.

To prevent the pieces or balls of butter from melting in warm weather, cracked ice may be placed on the butter dish with them. Butter cut into cubes or squares may also be served on an individual butter dish or an individual bread-and-butter plate placed at each person’s place before the meal is served.

Whichever plan is adopted, any fragments of butter that remain on the plates after a meal should be gathered up and used for cooking purposes.

Butter that comes in pound prints lends itself readily to the cutting of small cubes or squares for serving. Such butter may be cut by drawing a string through the print or by using a knife whose cutting edge is covered with paper, a small piece of the oiled paper such as that in which the butter is wrapped answering very well for this purpose.

If butter balls are desired for serving, they may be rolled with butter paddles. To make butter balls, put wads of the butter to be used into ice water so as to make them hard. Then place each wad between the paddles, and give the paddles a circular motion.

After a little practice, it will be a simple matter to make butter balls that will add to the attractiveness of any meal. Paddles made especially for this purpose can be purchased in all stores that sell kitchen utensils.

Sometimes, for practical purposes, it is desired to know the quantity of butter that is served to each person. In the case of print butter, this is a simple matter to determine. First mark the pound print in the center in order to divide it in half; after cutting it into two pieces, cut each half into two, and finally each fourth into two.

With the pound print cut into eight pieces, divide and cut each eighth into four pieces. As there will be thirty-two small pieces, each one will represent one thirty-second of a pound, or 1/2 ounce.

Butter is a common ingredient in most of our cooking. It is absolutely crucial in French baking, in fact, in any French cooking. But the majority of western cuisines also choose butter as the principal cooking fat. Oriental cuisines generally do not. Only Indian cooks use it extensively in its clarified form, ghee.

While perishable, butter doesn’t spoil nearly as quickly as milk. When Indian cooks remove its milk solids (by clarifying), they don’t even need to refrigerate butter. In clarified form its shelflife is as long as that of any vegetable oil.

The major problem posed by butter in our culture today is its high saturated fat and cholesterol content. (The fat in butter is called butterfat, a chemically distinct type among fats). Many U.S. households have banned butter from their kitchens with regrets, substituting margarine or oil.

How do we obtain our butter? First the milk processor pasteurizes, then ages the cream for at least 8 hours and finally churns it into butter by physical agitation. Aging the cream allows the milk fat to crystallize and weakens the fat globules.

The forceful agitation of churning breaks each tiny globule’s delicate membrane and allows the globules to clump together into a solid, that we call butter. The churning action expels a byproduct liquid, that the industry calls buttermilk. This is not the kind of buttermilk we drink, it only has the same name.

After the cream becomes butter, it goes through washing and then a mechanical manipulation (something like kneading bread dough) to reduce the size of the fat crystals. This makes it softer and more spreadable.

Butter oxidizes (turns rancid) at room temperature relatively fast. Chilling slows down the oxidizing process. Antioxidants would help reduce rancidity, but U.S. law restricts adding anything but salt and a coloring agent to butter. Salt extends its shelflife, coloring enhances its appearance.

Salting butter is a habit left over from the days before refrigerators. By the time refrigeration was common, people were used to the flavor of salted butter, and processors encouraged its use because it extended the shelflife. The amount of salt they use in butter is 1.5 to 1.8 percent (about 1¾ teaspoons in a pound or 450 g).

The most common coloring agent is annatto, a natural reddish-yellow dye. Without coloring, most butter is too white to look like the real thing. The natural color depends on what the cows, who produce the cream, eat so in some seasons they must use coloring to boost the yellowness-or consumers start complaining.

That 15 to 16 percent water you see in the table is the reason butter sizzles when you heat it in the sauté pan. The water boils in the hot pan, turns into steam and tries to escape from its covering blanket of fat. The bubbles of steam pop and they make a symphony of sound that we hear as sizzle. Oil, lard and vegetable shortening never sizzle in a hot pan because they are free of moisture.

Don’t confuse unsalted butter with sweet cream butter. The sweet cream label refers to the fact that they started the churning process with sweet instead of soured cream. North American processors don’t use soured cream to make butter, but the French and several other Europeans do as consumers prefer it. They let the cream sour slightly before churning it.

The difference in flavor between the two types of butter is slight-the European style has a slight tanginess. No one knows why we still retain the outdated term sweet cream butter, but it has nothing to do with its salt content.

Butter blends and dairy spreads are a combination of butter and vegetable oils. Mixing oil in butter reduces the price since oil is far cheaper than butter, but it also reduces the cholesterol while maintaining some butter flavor. Don’t be fooled-total fat and calories remain about the same. In low-fat spreads, water replaces some of butter’s fat, reducing not only fat but calories, cholesterol and flavor

Margarine

Margarine is not a dairy product but since so many people substitute margarine for butter, this is a good place for its discussion.

A food scientist in France, H. Mège-Mouriès, developed margarine in 1869 as a substitute for butter in case of unexpected dairy shortage. He produced it by churning together high-quality beef fat, called suet, and milk, but production was limited because of shortages of suet.

In 1902 W. Normann, a German scientist improved on the technique, and was able to bypass suet and harden oil with the addition of hydrogen (this is the process called

hydrogenation), which changed liquid oil into a solid fat that we know as today’s margarine.

Margarine is mainly oil and water. The processor uses huge hydrogenation converter drums with a nickel catalyst at 200°C (392°F) and violent agitation in contact with a flow of hydrogen gas. Then they cool and filter the resulting margarine to remove traces of the nickel catalyst.