Here’s the quick, no-nonsense course in supermarket fish shopping; there are more details in the discussions of individual fish, but this will get you started.

Needless to say, or almost needless to say, you should avoid fish counters that smell or look dirty. I’d like to think that at this stage of the game you wouldn’t encounter such a disgrace, but if you do, run, don’t walk. (It might not be a bad idea to stop long enough to complain to the management, which might encourage them to clean up their act.)
Generally, steer clear of prewrapped fish. It might be good, and there’s nothing intrinsically wrong with it, but it’s difficult to evaluate. (Though you could poke a hole in the plastic and smell it; I’ve done that plenty of times, and it works. If it’s bad, don’t put it back-hand it to someone and tell them to get the rest of it off the shelves.)
Purchasing shellfish is usually pretty straightforward:
Lobster, crab, whole clams, oysters, mussels, and certain other mollusks must be alive when sold. Lobsters and crabs should be quite lively; if they seem tired, move on. The muscles of live mollusks make it difficult to pry their shells apart, and this is a good test. If, however, mollusks are shucked and separated from their guts, as scallops routinely are (and oysters frequently are), the shelf life is extended considerably. In this case, smell them if possible.
Shrimp are almost always shipped frozen and defrosted before sale. It’s better, though, to buy them still frozen; you may get a more favorable price, and you can control how and when they are defrosted. The best way to defrost shrimp is in the refrigerator (which takes a while) or under cold running water (which is quite rapid).

These days most finfish is sold in the form of fillets and steaks, and most of these are shipped after cutting; few fish counters butcher whole fish anymore. The surface of fillets and steaks should be bright, clear, and reflective-almost translucent. The color should be consistent with the type of fish.
For example, pearly white fish should not have spots of pink, which are usually bruises, or browning, which indicates spoilage. Creamy or ivory-colored fish should have no areas of deep red or brown. It’s easy enough to get to know the ideal appearance of your favorite fish and reject any that doesn’t meet your standard, but it’s just as important to know the warning signs for fish in general.
Whole fish gives you more signals than fillets or steaks. Look for red gills (located right behind the head), bright reflective skin, firm flesh, an undamaged layer of scales, and no browning anywhere; the fish should smell sweet or salty-not “fishy.”

The best whole fish look alive, as if they just came out of the water. In general, trust your instincts. Good fish looks good, has firm, unmarred flesh, and smells like fresh seawater.
If your supermarket fishmonger won’t let you smell the fish, and it passes the appearance tests, try buying it, opening the package right on the spot, and, if the smell is at all off, handing it right back. If you’re reluctant to do that, take any fish that doesn’t meet your expectations when you cook it back to the supermarket for an exchange or a refund. Demand quality.


























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