Posts Tagged ‘pasta’

Cooking for One: Take time to ‘cook’ at work

Wednesday, July 14th, 2010

As I was looking for an interesting story to write, I found this wonderful article that I think everyone will want to read , at least the ones who have 9 to 5 jobs:

As much as I believe in the power of a midday pause, I’m often as guilty as anyone else of dashing out, grabbing takeout and returning to eat in front of the computer. When I’m not brown-bagging it, that is.

smart-fat

It’s not the most healthful approach, perhaps mentally even more than physically. I’ve read about Take Back Your Lunch, a movement started by the Energy Project that encourages workers to reclaim the lunch hour, and of course it makes sense to fuel creativity by stepping away and relaxing, even to see friends or to network. One colleague of mine is the king of the indulgent lunch, giving no thought to cabbing off to Alexandria for the prix-fixe special at Restaurant Eve or taking the Metro to Arlington for a hit of Ray’s Hell-Burger. And he’s plenty productive at work.

Even if I made the time, though, here’s a news flash: My office is nicely air-conditioned, and in the recent triple-digit heat downtown, I would rather do anything than step outdoors, especially around noon. When I head down to The Post’s cafeteria, trying to find something appealing at the so-called Around the World Bar, let’s just say that it doesn’t bode well for the rest of the day.

The compromise? I take the time to cook lunch myself. I should probably put quote marks around that operative verb, because compared with what I usually do at home, this might not exactly be considered cooking. Nonetheless, for someone like me who finds the kitchen the most meditative room in the house, it’s still almost as soothing to cobble together something in our office’s kitchenette as it is to chop, heat, slice and stir at home.

I’ve made a game of it. What ingredients can I bring to work and store in my dorm-size fridge or desk drawers that will last without quickly spoiling (or annoying my office mates); can pack enough flavor to allow me to forgo spices and seasonings; and can be made with the simplest of equipment?

Smoked, cured and/or otherwise fully cooked sausages, herb-brined olives and canned sardines go to the front of the line. Right behind is tomato paste in a tube, which, unlike its canned counterpart, is more convenient for single-serving recipes. Canned beans (I prefer the low-sodium or no-salt-added variety) are ready whenever you are. Instant couscous and angel-hair pasta nests are shelf-stable and cook in minutes.

canned-beans

Best of all, these ingredients can be prepared using the typical appliances in office kitchens.

Truth be told, I do sometimes employ a toaster oven at work, but in acknowledgment of the fact that many offices aren’t as well equipped, I resisted developing recipes for this column that way. Instead, my instruments have been the microwave and teakettle. At home, I use the former for two things: reheating and cooking a potato or sweet potato. At work, its job has been limited to “cooking” — really just heating — toppings for that pasta and couscous.

The teakettle does what teakettles do: boil water, a key step in making instant couscous. I’ve also taken advantage of the fact that angel-hair pasta is delicate enough that once boiling water has been added, its residual heat can get the noodles to al dente in a few minutes flat. I also have been known to “blanch” vegetables such as snow peas, sugar snaps and broccoli using the same technique.

At first, I was a little hamstrung by the kitchen tools, or lack thereof. What passes for a sharp knife in our office would prompt any culinary instructor to launch into a lecture about the importance of cutlery maintenance. And forget measuring cups or a big cutting board.

No matter. A dull paring knife can still handle olives, spinach leaves and sausage. Sardines barely need breaking up with a fork. The container of instant couscous comes with its own measuring scoop, and I found a plastic leftover-food container that has cup markings on the side for the water that will hydrate the couscous. Mostly, measurements aren’t needed; I boil as much water as possible to keep the pasta from getting gummy, and I eyeball everything else.

office_nutrition_cartoon

Preparing food at work comes with etiquette issues, the types of behaviors that prompt those “Your Mother Doesn’t Work Here” signs. I keep things clean enough, but I’ve been worried about those sardines. After all, I’ve been in some offices that specifically forbid fish in the microwave, because the device has a way of carrying the odor across time and space. But with a paper towel over the fish and just enough time to heat the small amount I use, I’ve avoided the wrath of others.

After several weeks of experiments, my pasta with sardines was pungently satisfying, but the couscous-and-sausage concoction was so simple it verged on boring. That’s when another crucial ingredient became mandatory. Now, one thing I always keep in my desk drawer is a little bottle of Tabasco.

I don’t think I’ll be completely satisfied with my workplace cooking, though, until I cross one remaining hurdle. Once the weather cools, I am going to try my darnedest, after I whip up something in our kitchenette, to carry the plate or bowl not back to my desk, but up to a roof-deck patio. And maybe even to invite a colleague to do the same

More types of pasta

Monday, July 12th, 2010

We should not leave some of pasta’s close relatives unmentioned, even though they are relatively unimportant when it comes to North American menu items.

The overwhelming variety of strange-named Asian noodles intimidates most Western cooks who, until now, entirely disregarded them. But Asian noodles are “in” and we can no longer ignore them.

types-of-pasta

Even mainline supermarkets carry some of them, and one, ramen noodles became household name. Ramen soup packages are highly popular, inexpensive and most convenient, almost instant, reasonably flavorful soups that appear on many people’s pantry shelf.

Most Asian noodles are no different from our pasta products. They are usually long products made with wheat flour and there is absolutely no reason why you could not substitute similar-shaped pasta for them.

Oriental egg noodles are similar to Italian angel hair pasta, vermicelli or spaghettini (these are all long but increasingly thicker pasta) but the Oriental version includes a small amount of egg. For example, you can use vermicelli or angel hair pasta

when the recipe calls for thin Chinese noodles or ramen noodles.

The Japanese make similar noodles from buckwheat flour, giving a heavy, dark-hued pasta. Some Oriental cuisines even make noodles from mung bean flour. There is no substitute for these types in the Italian pasta repertoire.

Rice flour is the ingredient for rice noodles. They have different texture, color, appearance and mouthfeel than wheat flour noodles of the same shape but if you are stuck in a recipe, go ahead, substitute with vermicelli weight by weight.

You can also use a more commonly available Asian noodles for some odd-named variety a recipe calls for, just like you can substitute one Italian pasta for another in most recipes. The result may not be authentic but the dish will taste the same.

Spätzle is a somewhat more distant cousin, mostly in German and Eastern European cooking (it is called galuska in Hungary and kluski in Poland). Spätzle is really a fresh, homemade irregular-shaped egg pasta, the size of cherries, that look like tiny dumplings. Its blessings is in its quick preparation yet it also tastes good with a slightly chewy consistency of al dente macaroni. Spätzle is so rough and irregular in shape, that it holds sauces very effectively like many tiny little spoons.

spatzle

With a little experience you can put spätzle on the table in less than 10 minutes. Put the pot of water on to heat and mix the flour, water and egg into a medium-stiff dough, something like a soft yeast bread dough. Form it into small chunks and drop into the boiling water. It is ready three minutes later. Drain and serve.

Experienced cooks can make spätzle with nothing but a small board and a spoon with which they scrape little pieces of dough into the boiling water. But if you are making more than 6 or 8 servings, a spätzle-maker is handy. I came across two kinds.

One is a flat, rectangular shaped metal tool with large holes that looks like a flat grater. It has hooks to hold it firmly on top of a pot. You place some of the dough on top of it while it sits over the boiling water, and scrape it back and forth with a spoon until you press the dough through the holes, then continue with the rest of the dough.

gnocchi

The second type is a food-mill-like tool with a handle that rotates a paddle on the bottom. The paddle presses the dough through holes into the boiling water. This also has hooks to firmly set it over a pot of boiling water. Both are efficient, easy to use.

Italian gnocchi is similar to spätzle but you make it with semolina instead of standard household flour. Italians, who like variations on a theme, add other ingredients besides the flour to cook cornmeal gnocchi, potato gnocchi, ricotta gnocchi to name a few.

Cooking makes a difference-Cooking pasta

Wednesday, June 23rd, 2010

Cooking pasta is very easy. So why is it that so many cooks ruin it? The fault is usually the cook’s inattention or his or her poor knowledge of a few basic facts. Pasta needs plenty of boiling salted water, about three times the volume of the dry pasta. A large amount of water keeps boiling while you add the pasta, a crucial factor for ending up with a firm outcome.

If the cook starts with a small pot of water, according to basic laws of physics, the water temperature drops drastically when you drop in the pasta compared to a large pot of water. To help keep water remain in furious boil, add pasta little at a time, not all at once.

Start your timer when the last batch is in the water. Use 1 tablespoon salt for every gallon of cooking water. Cooking without salt gives you a flat-tasting pasta that no sauce can cover up. Too much salt gives a sharp over-salted taste to whatever you mix it with.

Many cookbooks advise you to add oil to the boiling water to keep the pasta from sticking together. This is an unfounded myth. The oil remains on the surface of the water, only making it harder to wash the pot when cleaning up. Pasta won’t stick together if you keep stirring for a few seconds while adding it to the boiling water. After the water returns to a full boil, hang around and give your pot a stir once or twice. Good pasta will remain in distinct pieces.

pasta-con-limone-e-pignoli

Never, never cover the pot while cooking pasta. Some of the starch dissolves in the water during cooking, floats on the surface and the water boils over, making a terrible mess of your stove.

Instructions on the package give you a general guide about cooking time, but experience with the same brand is your best bet. When uncertain about cooking time, taste test the pasta near the end to avoid overcooking. Pasta should be cooked to a stage of, as the Italians say, al dente, or firm to the teeth. Fully cooked yet just slightly chewy, like barley grains in a soup.

pasta-with-marinara-sauce

If you overcook pasta and it becomes mushy, throw it out and start with a brand new batch. Feed the overcooked pasta to your dog. The cat is apt to have more gourmet sense and won’t touch it. As soon as the pasta is cooked, drain it in a colander. Good pasta does not need rinsing.

Cheaper pasta with its higher starch may benefit as you remove any remaining surface starch that helps to keep the individual pieces from sticking together. If you serve the pasta right away, shake the colander to remove as much water as possible. Add a little oil, preferably olive oil, to the still-warm cooking pot, just enough to barely cover the bottom.

pasta-alla-caruso

Return the drained pasta to the pot, thoroughly stir the oil into it and warm it over low heat stirring constantly until most of the moisture has evaporated. Now the oil coats the surface of the pasta and keeps the gelatinized starch of neighboring noodles from sticking together. Within a minute your pasta should be hot enough to serve.

When you are baking a pasta dish like lasagna, which has plenty of liquid in the sauce, you don’t need to pre-cook the pasta. Disregard all such recipe instruction. Just layer the dry pasta with the rest of the ingredients and bake it for the usual time. By the time it is baked, the pasta will be soft and fully cooked. Try this method first with the family, before you serve it to dinner guests, to prove to yourself that it works. It saves an hour of anxiety should you try it on guests.

How do you decide how much pasta to cook? There are a number of kitchen gizmos available to help you measure the appropriate amount. Best and easiest is to weigh it. The average person eats about 3 ounces (85 g) of pasta by dry weight when it is the main entrée. Reduce that to 2 to 2½ ounces (55 to 70 g) when it is a side dish with generous amount of other foods. Take into account the individual appetites of the people you are serving, too.