Wizard Recipes

Shrimp, the most popular noncanned seafood in America, can be domestic or imported, wild or farmed. I generally prefer wild shrimp from the Pacific or the Gulf of Mexico, but it’s not often you’ll have a choice beyond farmed.

Best of all is fresh local shrimp, that’s quite rare unless you live on the Gulf Coast (or where there’s a seasonal resource, as there is in Maine, the Carolinas, and elsewhere).

The reality is that almost all shrimp is frozen before sale, and I recommend buying shrimp frozen rather than thawed. Since the shelf life of previously frozen shrimp is not much more than a couple of days, buying thawed shrimp gives you neither the flavor of fresh nor the flexibility of frozen. Stored in a home freezer, shrimp retain their quality for a month or more.

Some frozen shrimp is sold in blocks of 5 pounds (or 2 kilos, slightly less than that); usually it’s packed in IQF (individually quick frozen) bags of 2 pounds or 1 kilo. These are super-convenient, because you can take six shrimp out of the freezer and defrost them, leaving the rest frozen.

If you have time, defrost shrimp in the refrigerator for about 24 hours; if you’re in a hurry, in cold water. Partial defrosting to cut a block in half to refreeze some for later use, while not ideal, is still preferable to buying thawed shrimp.

Despite the popularity of shrimp, there are few rules governing its sale. Small, medium, large, extra-large, jumbo, and other size classifications are subjective and relative. Small shrimp of seventy or so to the pound are frequently labeled medium, as are those twice that size and even larger.

It helps to learn to judge shrimp size by the number per pound, as retailers do. Shrimp labeled 16/20, for example, require sixteen to twenty to make a pound. U-20 means under twenty will make a pound. I look for shrimp sized between fifteen and thirty per pound, which give the best combination of flavor, ease (peeling tiny shrimp is a nuisance), and value. Smaller shrimp are less expensive.

If your palate is sensitive to iodine-not everyone’s is-you might want to steer clear of brown shrimp, especially large ones, which are most likely to taste of this naturally occurring mineral. The iodine is found in a type of plankton that makes up a large part of the diet of brown shrimp; traditionally, this distinctive flavor is preferred along the Gulf Coast.

Shrimp is among the easiest shellfish to cook. It isn’t always done when it turns pink-some of the larger shrimp take a little longer to cook through-but it usually is. And it’s easy enough to cut one open to be sure. Brining shrimp before cooking, or even just salting it, can enhance its flavor and texture, but only in simple grilled, broiled, or pan fried recipes.

Here’s how: Dissolve 1 cup salt and 1/2 cup sugar in a large bowl of water. Add whole or peeled shrimp and fill with ice. Put in the fridge for 2 hours or so. (Or sprinkle the shrimp liberally with coarse salt, toss well, and refrigerate.) Either way, rinse the shrimp well and drain before using.

One last note: If you buy shell-on shrimp and peel them yourself, you can make a quick stock by simmering the shells-in just enough water to cover-for about 10 minutes.

Shrimp is the most widely consumed seafood worldwide, and it is the second most popular in the United States, after tuna. The harvest of both wild and farmed shrimp is increasing rapidly to keep pace with the soaring demand for this crustacean.

It has become popular internationally because its sweet, mild, and yet distinct flavor is similar to that of lobster, but it is easier to cook and costs half as much. Although hundreds of species are caught, shrimp generally can be classified by origin - either warm water or cold water.

Cold-water varieties - such as the well-known small, pink, peeled shrimp - tend to be sweeter than the larger shrimp, which typically develop in warmer waters. These larger varieties are often sold uncooked and unpeeled under the name “prawns,” but the name can be used for shrimp of any size.The names of shrimp can be confusing.

Many varieties of shrimp are named after a color (white, pink, brown), but white shrimp are not necessarily white. They may look pink, brown, or gray. Confounding the problem, most shrimp shells change color when cooked.

Shrimp are marketed according to size (number per pound), but market terms vary greatly. Because shrimp freeze well, most, even those classified as “fresh” in the supermarket, have been frozen at some point.Neither taste nor texture suffers much.

Shrimp is sold shelled or unshelled, raw or cooked, and fresh or frozen. Shrimp also can be bought breaded or stuffed or as a spread for crackers or bread. Dried shrimp and shrimp paste can be found in Asian grocery stores.

Preparation Tips

Choose raw, shelled shrimp that are firm, moist, and translucent. Avoid any shrimp that smells like ammonia. Unshelled shrimp should have shiny, firm shells. Avoid those with black spots and those with yellow or gritty shells, which result from a bleaching process to remove the spots.

Before storing fresh, uncooked shrimp, rinse them well under cold, running water and drain thoroughly. Refrigerate, tightly covered, for up to 2 days.

Shrimp are usually shelled before they are eaten, which is easily accomplished by peeling back the head first, then the rest of the shell. Shelling is easier when shrimp are cold or even frozen.

Shrimp are also usually deveined, although this is not necessary before eating small to medium-sized shrimp. To devein a shrimp, cut into the shrimp lengthwise with a sharp knife. Then use the knife to remove the dark vein - which is actually the intestine that runs down its back.

Although there are slight differences in texture and flavor, shrimp of various sizes (except the miniatures) can usually be substituted for each other.

As with all shellfish, shrimp should be cooked briefly or it becomes tough and rubbery. Cook only until the flesh turns opaque. To test, cut a shrimp in half, and check whether the flesh has turned from translucent to opaque. Whole shrimp should just begin to curl. If the shells are on, they should turn pink.

Serving Suggestions

One reason for the popularity of shrimp is its versatility. Name a cooking technique, and you probably will be able to find a shrimp recipe for it. Shrimp is served cold in shrimp cocktail. It can be grilled, boiled, broiled, roasted, curried, or stir-fried.

It goes well with pasta and rice. It is also an excellent ingredient in soups and can be used interchangeably with other shellfish in recipes. Garlic is a seasoning that particularly complements shrimp’s flavor.The two are used together in well-known dishes such as shrimp scampi.

Scallops have firm, ivory-colored meat that can be divine if not overcooked. The flavor is sweet, nutty and delicate. They are readily available in seafood markets, but they must be absolutely fresh to be good. Everything between the two shells is edible, although in North America people opt for the single large adductor muscle only.

Unlike clam shells, the two halves of a scallop shell don’t completely close. They dehydrate quickly after harvesting and die if the fishermen don’t keep them in optimum environment. Because they are so perishable, processors often clean scallops on board the fishing vessel and keep them on ice. They are not as easily available for harvesting as shrimp.

The fishermen must catch enough to make it worthwhile to bring them into port, so those unfortunate ones they caught early may be shivering quite a while on ice before they haul the last ones in.

Storing scallops in fresh water improves the all-important appearance for marketability. Unfortunately for the consumer, this also increases weight and dilutes flavor.

Individually quick-frozen scallops retain their freshness, flavor and moisture well, and you often get a better buy and quality than fresh ones when you cannot validate just how fresh is fresh.

Distributors usually soak scallops destined to sell as fresh in a chemical (sodium tripolyphosphate) to retain moisture and improve appearance. They may look great but be wary-the chemical alters the flavor and you might think of wandering over to the frozen counter instead.

Stores commonly sell two major species of scallops, the small and more delicately flavored bay scallops and the larger, more abundant and nearly as good sea scallops, which are much cheaper. Tiny calico scallops from Florida are very uncommon. They resemble bay scallops but supposedly don’t have as good a flavor.

The scallops at the market are pure meat, you only lose the liquid it releases on cooking. Count on 4 to 5 ounces (110 to 140 g) per person.

Shrimp is without doubt our most popular shellfish and among the most popular of all seafood. With its firm meat (when not overcooked) and delicate, distinctive but not overpowering flavor, even diners who never choose seafood from a menu may order shrimp (provided there’s some juicy red meat on the plate next to the shrimp).

A dozen different species of commercially important shrimp grow in various parts of the world. With modern air transportation, we have access to all of them. Flavor has nothing to do with size, but restaurants prefer the large shrimp, because they are easier and faster to shell and look very showy on the plate.

Diners are also willing to pay extra for colossal and jumbo sizes. Sizes vary tremendously. Really tiny shrimp weigh less than one-tenth of an ounce (3 g) each (the weight of a clove of garlic), while the giant species weigh in at about half a pound (225 g), too much for one serving.

A significant amount of imported shrimp is now coming from Asian shrimp farms, where they harvest and immediately flash freeze them, then ship by air all over the world. Shrimp are so perishable that they must freeze them immediately after they leave the water. If the shrimp you brought home from the store turns out not very good, blame it on the handling somewhere between the water and your plate. (Or blame the cook.)

It is the underpaid retail store worker that knows the least about handling and storing to preserve flavor. Your best bet is to buy shrimp frozen, if you can find it packaged in the right quantity, and defrost it yourself. (See suggestions on storing later in this chapter.)

Retailers generally buy shrimp in four-pound boxes, that are only occasionally displayed, but you can request a full frozen box. Asian markets always have them in the freezer case. The fresh-looking shrimp on display at the fish counter are not fresh-the clerk defrosted them just a few hours before you arrived. Usually the only way you can buy fresh, never-frozen shrimp is from fishing boats just pulling in.

Don’t ever buy pre-cooked shrimp. Cooking shrimp is almost as easy as cooking potatoes, and you can do a far better job than the supermarket’s underpaid cook in the back.

When you are planning to use shrimp cold, it is best to cook them soon after purchase.

Cooking kills microorganism and deactivates enzymes, both of which speed deterioration. Once cooked and chilled, the shrimp’s shelf life increases considerably.

Cooking shrimp is easy, but cooking for the perfect, succulent flavor and juicy, firm, toothsome texture takes a good recipe and good method. I tested many, many recipes from different sources and finally chose two that are quick and easy and result in firm but not dry shrimp, that retain their flavor instead of releasing it into the cooking liquid. The first method is particularly quick, but the second one has added flavor from spices in the cooking liquid.       From beginning to end, the first method takes 10 minutes, the second one 20 minutes (not including cleaning the shrimp).

Remove shells from shrimp. The most efficient way is to pop open the shell from its belly with your thumbs, as if you were removing green peas from their pods. Pull the shell apart and peel it off the shrimp. If you are planning to leave the tail on as a handle, pinch the tail with your fingers, and stop peeling when you reach your fingers. Pull off the rest of the shell. Devein if you wish.

Method 1

1. Place shrimp in a bowl and barely cover them with water. Drain and measure the amount of water then pour it into a pan. Stir to dissolve 1 tablespoon salt for every quart (liter) of water. Bring the salted water to boil.

2. When the water is at furious boil, take the pot off the heat, dump the shrimp in the water, stir lightly with a spoon and cover. Set your timer for 5 minutes.

3. Drain the water and quickly chill the shrimp in cold running water. Drain again and refrigerate.

Method 2

1. Place shrimp in a pot and barely cover with water. Drain and measure the amount of water, then return it to the pot. Add 1 tablespoon salt, 1 bay leaf, 1 teaspoon peppercorn,1 /2 teaspoon dry thyme and 1/4 cup white wine for every quart (liter) of water. Pour the seasoned liquid (which is a simple court-bouillon) over the shrimp in the pot.

2. Cover the pot and bring water and shrimp to boil on high heat. Watch the pot. As soon as you see steam escape, pour the water off. Replace the cover and let shrimp sit in the steam for 10 minutes.

3. Chill the shrimp in cold running water. Drain and refrigerate