Blueberry and Other Berry Pies

There are variations on this standard, but it is the model for all berry pies. Again, I like to minimize the spices and other flavorings, emphasizing the flavor of the berries.

5 cups blueberries, picked over, briefly rinsed, and lightly dried

1/2 to 1 cup sugar, depending on your taste and the sweetness of the berries, plus a little for the top

2 tablespoons cornstarch or 3 tablespoons instant tapioca

Pinch salt

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Pinch ground allspice or freshly grated nutmeg

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 teaspoon minced lemon zest (optional)

2 recipes Flaky Piecrust
bottom crust fitted into a 9-inch pie pan, top crust transferred to a rimless baking sheet, both chilled

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into bits

Milk as needed

• Heat the oven to 450 F. Gently toss the blueberries with the sugar, thickener, salt, and spices. Stir in the lemon juice and the zest if you’re using it and pile into the rolled-out shell, making the pile a little higher in the center than at the sides. Dot with butter. Cover with the top crust. Decorate the edges with a fork or your fingers
• Put the pie on a baking sheet and brush the top lightly with milk; sprinkle with sugar. Use a sharp paring knife to cut two or three 2-inch-long slits in the top crust to allow steam to escape. Bake for 10 minutes; reduce the heat to 350 F and bake for another 40 to 50 minutes, or until the pie is golden brown. Do not underbake. Cool on a rack before serving warm or at room temperature.

Blackberry or Raspberry Pie.
• Combine these berries with each other or with blueberries: Be gentle in washing and drying the fragile berries and increase the amount of either thickener by 1 tablespoon.

Strawberry, Rhubarb, or Strawberry-Rhubarb Pie.
• Use a total of 5 cups of fruit, in any combination you like. String rhubarb , then cut it into 1- inch pieces. Hull strawberries; slice in half or leave whole. If you’re using rhubarb, use at least 1 cup sugar. Use 3 tablespoons cornstarch or 1/4 cup instant tapioca as thickener. Omit the lemon juice and zest.

MAKES: One 9-inch pie (about 8 servings)

TIME: About 11/2 hours, plus time to cool