Braised Potatoes

If you sear potatoes, then simmer them in liquid with aromatic vegetables—just as you would meat—the result is a simple stew with a texture that’s tough to beat. Try this recipe with small heirloom potatoes like fingerlings. Other vegetables or fruits you can use: any root vegetable or winter squash or even apples.

2 pounds all-purpose or waxy potatoes

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 small onion, minced

2 cups stock or water

1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley leaves for garnish

• Peel the potatoes and cut them into large chunks, in half if they’re midsized, and leave them whole if they’re small.
• Put the oil in a large pot over medium-high heat.
• When hot, add the potatoes and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until coated in oil and beginning to turn golden. Add the onion and stir a few times until it softens, a minute or two.
• Add the stock and enough water so that the potatoes are barely covered. Bring to a boil, stirring once in a while to make sure the potatoes aren’t sticking, then turn the heat to medium-low so that the mixture bubbles gently. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes get tender, 20 to 25 minutes.
• Add more liquid if they start to stick. The potatoes are done when a skewer or sharp knife inserted into one meets almost no resistance. Taste and adjust the seasoning, garnish with parsley, and serve hot or at room temperature.

Braised Potatoes and Garlic.
• Omit the onion. Peel 1 or 2 heads of garlic and add them along with the potatoes in Step 2. Proceed with the recipe, garnishing with grated Parmesan if you like.

Wine-Braised Potatoes with Bacon.
• Add 4 ounces chopped bacon. Substitute white wine for half the stock. Omit the oil, along with the onions too if you like. In Step 1, start cooking the bacon, and when some of the fat has rendered, add the potatoes. Proceed with the recipe.

Cream-Braised Potatoes
• Use butter instead of olive oil. Instead of the stock or water, use cream, and use milk to finish covering the potatoes in Step 3. When the potatoes are done, stir in 1 tablespoon minced fresh tarragon or chervil if you like, instead of the parsley garnish, and serve hot.

Braised Potatoes with Kielbasa.
• Make this with beer as in the following variation if you like: Add 1 pound sliced kielbasa along with the onion in Step 2.

Beer-Braised Potatoes with Horseradish and Cheddar.
• Toss 1 cup grated cheddar cheese with 1 tablespoon of cornstarch. Instead of the stock, use beer or milk. When the potatoes are almost done, stir in the cheese mixture and a tablespoon or more of grated fresh or prepared horseradish. Add more beer or milk if the potatoes look too dry; they should be a little saucy. Stir until the cheese melts. Garnish and serve hot. Braised Potatoes with Mustard.
• When you add the stock in Step 3, stir in 1/4 cup of any mustard, coarseground or Dijon.

Braised Curried Potatoes in Coconut Milk.
• Replace the olive oil with a neutral oil, like grapeseed or corn. Add 1 tablespoon each finely chopped fresh ginger and garlic and 2 teaspoons curry powder or garam masala
  . Instead of the stock, use coconut milk. Proceed with the recipe, stirring in a cup or so fresh or frozen green peas if you like; they need only about 3 minutes to cook. Garnish with chopped fresh cilantro instead of the parsley and minced fresh Thai chile if you like.

Soy-Braised Potatoes.
• Instead of the olive oil, use 1 tablespoon dark sesame oil and 2 tablespoons neutral oil, like grapeseed or corn. Instead of the stock, use a mixture of 1/4 cup soy sauce and 13/4 cups water. Trim and chop a bunch of scallions and use that instead of the onion. Proceed with the recipe (don’t add salt until the potatoes are just about done and taste first, using salt or more soy). Garnish with cilantro instead of parsley and sprinkle with sesame seeds and minced fresh chile.

Braised Potatoes with Miso.
• Use neutral oil, like grapeseed or corn, instead of olive oil. Omit the onion, and instead of the parsley, use sliced scallion for garnish. Proceed with the recipe through Step 3, taking care not to oversalt. When the potatoes are done, remove from the heat. Whisk together 1/2 cup warm stock or water and stir in 1/4 cup any miso; add this mixture to the potatoes and stir well to combine and warm through. Taste, adjust the seasoning, garnish, and serve.

MAKES: 4 servings

TIME: About 40 minutes