Braised Tofu with Eggplant and Shiitakes

A more-or-less traditional Sichuan preparation, creamy and delicious with soft-cooked eggplant, made crisp by the addition of sautéed shiitakes. Substitute green beans for the eggplant if you like.

1/4 cup peanut or neutral oil, like grapeseed or corn

1 cup sliced shiitake caps (reserve stems for stock or discard)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon chopped garlic

1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger (optional)

11/2 pounds eggplant, trimmed, cut into 11/2-inch chunks, and salted, rinsed, and dried if you like

1 tablespoon Chile Paste
or to taste (optional)

1/2 cup stock or water

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 pound tofu, prepared or simply blotted dry, cut into 1/4-inch cubes

1 tablespoon dark sesame oil (optional)

Chopped fresh cilantro leaves for garnish (optional)

1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds for garnish (optional)

2 tablespoons minced scallion for garnish (optional)

• Put half the oil in a deep skillet or shallow saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the shiitakes and some salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are crisp, 5 to 10 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside.
• Add the remaining oil and, a few seconds later, the garlic and the ginger if you’re using it. As soon as it sizzles, after about a minute, add the eggplant. Cook, stirring every minute or so, until it browns, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the chile paste if you’re using it, along with the stock. Stir, scraping the bottom of the pan if necessary to release any stuck bits of eggplant. Cook until the eggplant is really tender, 10 to 15 minutes more, adding a little more liquid if necessary (unlikely but not impossible).
• Stir in the soy sauce and tofu and cook, stirring occasionally, until the tofu is heated through, about 5 minutes; stir in the reserved shiitakes and turn off the heat. Taste and adjust the seasoning, then add the sesame oil if you like, garnish as desired, and serve.

Braised Tofu with Chicken or Shrimp and Eggplant.
• Omit the shiitakes. Use 8 ounces sliced boneless, skinless chicken breast or thighs or peeled shrimp.

Braised Tofu with Spicy Ground Pork.
• Omit the shiitakes and the eggplant. Use 1 pound ground pork and be sure to use the chile paste. Reduce the oil to 2 tablespoons and skip Step 1. In Step 2, sauté the pork with the garlic as is described for the eggplant, breaking it into chunks as it cooks. Keep cooking and stirring until well browned, then drain off any excess fat and add the liquid. Proceed with the recipe.

MAKES: 4 servings

TIME: 30 minutes