Breaded Thick Fillets, with or without Apples

Apples and fish are a lovely combination from northern France, but don’t feel obligated to use the fruit. If you skip the apples, cut the butter in half, and start with Step 2, you end up with nicely breaded fish fillets—or fish sticks if you cut the fillets crosswise into fingers. Then all they need is some lemon wedges. Other seafood you can use: halibut or salmon (fillets or steaks), large shrimp or scallops, or smelts.

4 crisp not-too-sweet apples, such as Granny Smith

6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) butter

All-purpose flour for dredging

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 egg

1 cup bread crumbs, preferably fresh, plus more as needed

Four 6-ounce red snapper or other fillets marked with

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 tablespoon white wine, Calvados, or brandy (optional)

• Peel and core the apples, then cut them into rings or thin wedges. Melt half the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the apples, raise the heat to mediumhigh, and cook, tossing and stirring occasionally, until nicely browned on all sides, about 7 minutes. Transfer to a plate and keep warm in a 200 F oven while you prepare the fish.
• Wipe out the pan (carefully—it’s hot) and return it to medium-high heat. Season the flour with salt and pepper on a plate and beat the egg in a bowl. Put the bread crumbs on a plate. Add the remaining butter to the skillet and, when the foam subsides, dredge each fillet in the flour, then dip it in the egg, dredge it in the bread crumbs, and put it in the pan.
• Cook until the fillets are nicely browned on both sides, 6 to 8 minutes total. The fillets will be white, opaque, and tender inside when done. Transfer the fish to a platter. Drizzle the lemon juice and wine over the apples, spoon a portion onto each fillet, and serve.
  Pecan-Breaded Thick Fillets, with or without Apples.
  • Substitute ground pecans (not a powder, but ground fairly fine—you can use other nuts as well) for half the bread crumbs.
• MAKES: 4 servings
• TIME: 30 minutes