Capon Stuffed with Potatoes, Bacon, and Sauerkraut

Capons start off tragically. They’re unwanted roosters, castrated, fattened, and sold before they’re 10 months old. But barnyard tragedy is a culinary miracle. A capon has moist, firm meat, like a cross between a chicken and a turkey, the best of both worlds.

1 pound small red-skinned potatoes

2 teaspoons canola oil

6 ounces bacon, cut into 1⁄2-inch pieces

1 pound fresh sauerkraut, rinsed and squeezed dry

1⁄2 teaspoon paprika

1⁄2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

One 61⁄2- to 71⁄2-pound capon, giblets and neck removed

Butcher’s twine

1⁄2 teaspoon salt, optional (see Note

• Peel the potatoes, cut them into 1⁄2-inch pieces, place in a medium bowl, and cover with cool water to a depth of 1 inch. Set aside to leach starch for 10 minutes.
• Meanwhile, heat a large skillet over medium heat. Swirl in the canola oil, add the bacon, and cook until crispy, stirring often, about 3 minutes.
• Using a slotted spoon, transfer the bacon to a large bowl. Drain off but reserve half the fat from the skillet; return the skillet with the remaining fat to medium heat.
• Drain the potatoes in a colander set in the sink. Add them to the skillet and cook until slightly browned, stirring often, about 5 minutes. Add to the bowl with the bacon.
• Rinse the sauerkraut in a colander set in the sink, then squeeze dry in batches. Add to the bacon and potatoes; stir in the paprika and pepper. Set the stuffi ng aside to cool for 30 minutes.
• Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.
• Stuff the sauerkraut mixture into the capon’s large cavity, then truss the bird with butcher’s twine (see page 249). If desired, gently rub the salt into the bird’s skin.
• Set the capon on a rack in a large roasting pan. Baste it with half the reserved bacon fat from the skillet. Cover the bird with aluminum foil and roast for 1 hour.
• Uncover the bird, brush it with the remaining bacon fat, and continue roasting until the legs move freely, the capon is well browned, and a meat thermometer inserted into the stuffing registers 160 F and when inserted into the thickest part of the thigh without touching the bone registers 165 F (our preference) or 180 F (the USDA recommendation), 2 to 21⁄2 hours. Let rest at room temperature for 5 minutes before removing the stuffing and carving the bird.
• Note: The bacon and sauerkraut are quite salty; even the rendered bacon fat is loaded with sodium. Adding more salt is strictly optional.

Makes 6 to 8 servings