Cauliflower Salad with Olives and Bread Crumbs

Since it’s better after it marinates for a day, this is perfect for entertaining. Cook the cauliflower until just tender enough to bite without a crunch; you want the florets to hold together and not fall apart when tossed. For more flavor and only a bit more work, separate the cauliflower into florets and roast at 400 F until just starting to soften, about 15 minutes.

1 medium cauliflower (about 11/2 pounds), trimmed

1/2 small red onion, very thinly sliced

1/2 cup oil-cured or other good black olives, pitted and coarsely chopped

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 cup bread crumbs, preferably fresh

1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley leaves

• Rig a steamer and set it over an inch or so of water. Put in the cauliflower, cover, and bring to a boil. Cook the cauliflower until just barely tender, 10 to 20 minutes, depending on how dense it is. Check by sticking the tip of a knife into the core; there should still be some resistance. When done, immediately transfer the cauliflower to a bowl of ice water.
• Drain the cauliflower well and break into relatively small florets; put them in a medium bowl along with the onion and olives.Drizzle with the olive oil and vinegar and sprinkle with just a little salt and lots of pepper.Toss and set aside. (At this point, you may refrigerate the salad, covered, for up to a day. Return it to room temperature before proceeding, tossing occasionally to coat well with dressing.)
• Put the bread crumbs in a dry skillet over medium heat. Swirl the pan to keep them moving while they toast a little. When golden and fragrant, toss them with the cauliflower; sprinkle with the parsley and toss again.
• Taste, adjust the seasoning, and serve.
  Cauliflower Salad with Capers.
  • Instead of the olives, use 1/4 cup capers, preferably salt-cured, rinsed.
• MAKES: 4 servings
• TIME: 45 minutes