CHEESE-GILDED LINGUINE WITH SMOKY TOMATOES

5 quarts salted water in a 6-quart pot
Good-tasting extra-virgin olive oil
6 thick slices bacon, sliced into ¼-inch-wide sticks
1 medium to large onion, chopped into ¼- inch dice
Salt and fresh-ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes, or to taste
5 large garlic cloves, minced
2½ to 3 pounds delicious ripe tomatoes, cored and fine chopped (do not peel or seed); or one 28-ounce can whole tomatoes with their liquid, plus one 14- ounce can, drained
1 pound imported linguine
1 generous cup fresh-grated Parmigiano- Reggiano cheese, plus more for the table

You can buck up the personality of a bowl of pasta by merely switching the order of how grated cheese and tomato sauce are blended with the noodles.

Bring the salted water to a boil.
Lightly film a straight-sided 12-inch sauté pan with oil, add the bacon, and set over medium-high heat. Sauté until the bacon is golden. Remove it with a slotted spoon, setting it on paper towels to drain. Pour off all but about 3 tablespoons of the fat from the pan.
Return the pan to the heat, and stir in the onions, salt and pepper, and red pepper flakes. Reduce the heat to medium. Sauté until the onions soften and start to color, 5 to 8 minutes.
Blend in the garlic, cooking for 1 minute, and then add the tomatoes. If using canned ones, crush them as they go into the pan. Stir in the cooked bacon. Bring the sauce to a lively bubble and cook until it is thick, 7 to 8 minutes, stirring to keep it from sticking. Remove from the heat, taste for seasoning, and cover the pan. The sauce can wait on the stovetop for up to an hour. Bring it to a bubble before adding it to the pasta.
Drop the pasta into the boiling water, and cook until it is tender but still a little firm to the bite. Drain, and turn it into a serving bowl. Toss with the 1 cup cheese until it clings to the noodles, then toss with the sauce. Serve hot, with additional cheese at the table if desired.