Chicken in Red Wine Sauce

The French home-style standard, very dark and rich. If you use a typical chicken, it’s actually a pretty quick recipe to prepare; traditionally, the bird would be old and tough (if you’ve come across such a bird, cook it this way, but for a while longer). Use a decent but not necessarily expensive red wine and serve with hearty bread or Mashed Potatoes

1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms

4 ounces slab bacon, cut into 1/4-inch dice

20 pearl onions, peeled, or 1 large onion, sliced

8 ounces button mushrooms, trimmed and roughly chopped

1 whole chicken, 3 to 4 pounds, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 8 pieces, or any combination of parts

6 cloves garlic, peeled

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 cups chicken stock

2 cups Burgundy (Pinot Noir) or other fruity red wine

2 bay leaves

Several sprigs fresh thyme

Several sprigs fresh parsley

2 tablespoons butter

Chopped fresh parsley leaves for garnish

• Soak the porcini mushrooms in hot water to cover while you proceed with the recipe. Put the bacon in a large, deep skillet with a lid that will hold all the chicken.
• Cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until the bacon gives up its fat and becomes brown and crisp, about 10 minutes. Add the onions, button mushrooms, and chicken, skin side down, and brown the chicken well, rotating and turning the pieces as necessary; the process will take 10 to 15 minutes. About halfway through this time, add the garlic and sprinkle the chicken with salt and pepper.
• Pour or spoon off any excess fat and add the stock, wine, and herbs. Adjust the heat so that the mixture bubbles gently but steadily. Cover and cook for about 20 minutes, or until the chicken is tender and cooked through; the bird is done when an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh reads 155–165 F. (If you like, you can remove the breast pieces, which will finish cooking first, and keep them warm while the leg pieces finish.) Transfer the chicken to a platter and keep warm.
• Drain the porcini, add them to the skillet, and turn the heat to high (if you like, strain the mushroom soaking liquid and add that too). Boil until the mixture is reduced by about three-quarters and becomes fairly thick and saucy. Lower the heat, stir in the butter, and return the chicken to the pan, just to reheat a bit and coat with the sauce. (You can make the dish ahead to this point and refrigerate for up to a day; reheat gently.) Taste and adjust the seasoning, garnish with parsley, and serve.

MAKES: 4 servings

TIME: About 40 minutes