CHICKPEA CREPES

It’s important to remember that this is street food, not something hanging in the Louvre. Socca isn’t supposed to look precise or perfect: the more rustic, the better. But it does need to be served right from the oven. And just like in Nice, glasses of very cold rosé served over ice are an obligatory accompaniment.

• Whisk together the chickpea flour, water, salt, cumin, and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil until smooth and lump-free. Let batter rest, covered, for at least 2 hours. (It can be refrigerated overnight, then brought to room temperature before cooking.)
•  To cook the socca, position the oven rack in the top third of the oven and turn on the broiler.
•  Pour the remaining olive oil into a cast iron skillet or nonstick cake pan, then place the pan in the oven to preheat.
• Stir the batter, which should be runny (the consistency of buttermilk). If it’s very thick and holds a shape, add a spoonful of water or two, to thin it out.
• Once the oil is shimmering hot, ladle enough batter into the skillet or pan to cover the bottom, tilting the pan to distribute the batter.
• Cook the socca, with the door ajar, 3 to 4 minutes, depending on the heat of your broiler, until the socca begins to brown and is blistered. Remove from the oven, slide onto a platter, and crumble with your hands into irregular pieces.
• Sprinkle very generously with coarse salt and a few turns of pepper, and eat right away. Cook the remaining socca batter, in the hot pan, the same way.
• STORAGE: Socca don’t store well and they lose something when reheated. They really should be eaten right after they’ve been cooked.
• NOTE: Chickpea flour can be found in stores that specialize in Indian or Asian foods. It’s often labeled besam or gram. If using fine Italian chickpea flour, use only 1 cup (250 ml) water. Check Italian shops in your area for farina di ceci