Chile-Garlic Paste

Among the most ubiquitous and versatile of Asian sauces, used in hundreds of dishes and other sauces. Like the previous recipe, you can learn to make this instinctually, and you can customize the heat level by using milder chiles (like New Mexico) or hotter ones (Thai, chile de arbol, piquin, or habanero). You can also reduce the heat level some by removing the seeds from the chiles before crushing them.

1 cup dried red chiles, like red Thai, chile de arbol, piquin, or red New Mexico

1/4 cup chopped garlic

1/4 cup hot water, or more if needed

1/4 cup white wine vinegar or distilled vinegar

2 teaspoons sugar

1 teaspoon salt, or to taste

• Combine all the ingredients in a blender or food processor and purée to a smooth paste. Add more hot water by the tablespoon if the paste is too thick.
• Use immediately or refrigerate for up to 3 months.

MAKES: About 2 cups

TIME: 10 minutes