Chile Paste, Eight Ways

Pure dried chiles, reconstituted and puréed, make a terrific paste. Use relatively mild ones like ancho, dried Anaheim, or New Mexico green (which will make the paste green). Guajillo or chipotle will be much hotter. Better yet, use a combination of mild and hot, which gives you both heat and complexity (my favorite is mostly ancho with a hit of chipotle). The variations simply build additional flavors into the all-chile base. Whichever kind you make, if fresh herbs or aromatics are involved, use within a day or so for maximum freshness and oomph. Chile paste made with only dried seasonings will last for a couple of weeks.

2 ounces (6 to 12, depending on size) any dried whole chiles

Salt

2 tablespoons neutral oil, like grapeseed or corn

• Toast the chiles in a dry skillet over medium heat for a minute or two on each side, then soak them in boiling water until soft, 15 to 30 minutes. Drain the chiles, saving the soaking liquid, and remove and discard the seeds and veins (for a hotter paste, save some of the seeds).
• Put the chiles, any seeds you’re using, and a pinch of salt in a blender or food processor. Purée until smooth, adding a spoonful of soaking water at a time until you reach the desired consistency.
• Put the oil in a small skillet and over medium-high heat. Cook the chile paste, stirring constantly, until deeply colored and fragrant, about 2 minutes. Use immediately or refrigerate for up to 2 days. Just before serving, taste and adjust the seasoning.

Mexican-Style Chile Paste.
• Use all guajillo or other dark chiles: To the blender or processor, add 2 cloves garlic, 1 teaspoon ground cumin, and 2 tablespoons fresh epazote, Mexican oregano, or oregano leaves (or 2 teaspoons dried herbs). Use corn oil if you like instead of grapeseed and proceed with the recipe.

Chipotle Paste.
• Hot. Hot. Hot: Use some or all dried chipotles. Or skip Step 1 and use 1 small can of chipotles, with their adobo sauce (about 1/3 cup).

Thai-Style Chile Paste.
• Quite complex: Use 2 or 3 Thai chiles along with the mild chiles. To the blender or processor, add 1 inch lemongrass, peeled, trimmed, and chopped and 1/4 cup fresh cilantro or Thai basil leaves. Use peanut oil if you like instead of grapeseed.

Vietnamese-Style Chile Paste.
• Use 2 or 3 Thai chiles along with the mild chiles. To the blender or processor, add 3 or 4 cloves garlic and 2 tablespoons nam pla (Thai fish sauce), 2 tablespoons sugar, and 1/4 cup fresh mint leaves. Use peanut oil if you like instead of grapeseed. After cooking, squeeze in the juice of 1 lime.

Indian-Style Chile Paste.
• Useful if you want to add heat to Indian dishes: To the blender or processor, add 1 tablespoon garam masala
  , or more to taste. Use peanut oil if you like instead of grapeseed.

Harissa.
• The flavor is quite complex: To the blender or processor, add 1 tablespoon ground coriander seeds, 2 teaspoons ground cumin, and 1 or 2 cloves garlic. Use extra virgin olive oil instead of grapeseed.

Chile and Black Bean Paste.
• To the blender or processor, add 2 tablespoons fermented black beans and eliminate the salt until you taste for seasoning. Use peanut oil if you like instead of grapeseed.

MAKES: About 1/2 cup

TIME: 45 minutes, largely unattended