Chocolate and Lavender Cream

This is chocolate at its most deracinated. The use of herbs in sweet foods is an English habit going back to the Middle Ages, although perhaps also borrowed from the Middle East, and lavender has recently returned to fashion in food as well as perfume.

• Mix the sugar, wine and lemon juice in a heavy-based pan. Heat gently until the sugar dissolves, stirring occasionally. Stir in the cream and cook over a gentle heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens.
• Add the lavender and the grated chocolate, and stir until the chocolate dissolves. Bring to the boil and then simmer the mixture for twenty minutes, or until dark and thick. Remove the lavender stems.
• Cool, then pour into eight or more ramekins or small glasses. Cover the top with cling film and refrigerate (they keep well for 3–4 days). Decorate with a sprig of lavender.