Cold Noodles with Sesame or Peanut Sauce

A crowd-pleaser and an easy starter or side—or a main course on a hot day. To make it more substantial, add 1/2 cup or so of small tofu cubes or cooked soybeans. Or top each serving with a few slices of grilled, roasted, or poached chicken. The cucumber adds nice crunch and freshness to what is otherwise a pretty dense dish.

Salt

1 medium or 2 small cucumbers (optional)

12 ounces fresh Chinese egg noodles or long pasta, like linguine

2 tablespoons dark sesame oil

1/2 cup tahini, peanut butter, or a combination

2 tablespoons sugar

3 tablespoons soy sauce, or to taste

1 teaspoon minced fresh ginger (optional)

1 tablespoon rice or white wine or other vinegar

Hot sesame oil or Tabasco sauce to taste 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or more to taste

At least 1/2 cup chopped scallion for garnish

• Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Peel the cucumbers if you’re using them, cut them in half lengthwise, and, using a spoon, scoop out the seeds . Cut the cucumber into shreds (you can use a grater for this) and set aside.
• Cook the noodles in the boiling water until tender but not mushy. Meanwhile, whisk together the sesame oil and tahini, sugar, soy, ginger, vinegar, hot oil, and pepper in a large bowl. Thin the sauce with hot water until it’s about the consistency of heavy cream; you will need 1/4 to 1/2 cup. Stir in the cucumber. When the pasta is done, drain it and run the pasta under cold water. Drain.
• Toss the noodles with the sauce and cucumbers.
• Taste and adjust the seasoning (the dish may need salt), then garnish with the scallion and serve.

Spicy Cold Noodles with Pork.
• In Step 2, omit the tahini and hot oil from the dressing, adding 2 teaspoons Chile Paste
  or chile oil, or more to taste, 2 tablespoons dark sesame oil, and an extra tablespoon of rice vinegar. In Step 3, toss about 8 ounces thinly sliced roasted or grilled pork or smoked ham with the noodles and sauce. Garnish with bean sprouts, chopped cilantro, sliced scallion, and/or chopped radishes as you like.

MAKES: 2 main-course or 4 side-dish or appetizer servings

TIME: 30 minutes