Conchiglie with meaty tomato ragù

Ragù:
- 3 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 large onion, minced
- 2 garlic cloves, minced
- 1 celery rib, minced
- 1 carrot, minced
- leaves stripped from a sprig of fresh thyme
- 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary
- 1 pound lean ground beef
- 2/3 cup dry white wine
- 14-ounce can crushed tomatoes in juice
- 1¼ cups chicken stock or water
- pinch of sugar (optional)
- 14 ounces dried conchiglie
- large handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley and oregano, chopped
- freshly grated Parmesan for serving
Instructions:
Meat ragù freezes well and makes an ideal prepare-ahead supper.
- Heat a tablespoon of olive oil in a large, heavy-based pan until hot. Add the onion and some seasoning. Fry over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the onion begins to soften, 6–8 minutes. Tip in the garlic, celery, carrot, and herbs. Sauté over high heat until the vegetables are lightly golden, 3–4 minutes.
- Add the remaining oil and the beef. Stir well, pressing down on the beef to break it up. Season again and continue to stir over high heat until the beef is no longer red. Pour in the wine and let it boil vigorously until almost all evaporated and the pan is quite dry.
- Reduce the heat to medium and add the tomatoes and stock. Stir well to mix. When the liquid in the pan begins to boil, turn the heat to the lowest setting and partially cover the pan. Cook gently for 2½–3 hours, stirring occasionally. Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding a pinch of sugar, if necessary, to balance the acidity of the tomatoes.
- About 15 minutes before you are ready to serve, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the pasta according to package directions until al dente. As soon as the pasta is ready, drain it and immediately add to the hot ragù, stirring in the chopped herbs as well. Divide among warm plates and serve with a generous grating of black pepper and Parmesan.