Cornish crab soup

- 1 or more cooked crabs, depending on type, 3½–4 pounds in total
- 3 tablespoons olive oil
- 1 onion, minced
- 1 large carrot, minced
- 2 celery ribs, minced
- 1 large garlic clove, sliced
- 1 lemongrass stalk, roughly chopped
- 1 tablespoon tomato paste
- splash of brandy or Cognac
- scant 1 cup Noilly Prat or dry white wine
- 3 plum or Roma tomatoes, chopped
- sprig each of fresh basil, tarragon, and parsley
- 3–4 tablespoons crème fraîche
- handful of cilantro leaves for garnish
Instructions:
It may seem like a lot of effort to pick the meat from the crabs and use the shells to make your own stock, but the results are well worth it.
- Remove the meat from the crab bodies, legs, and claws (be sure to discard the small spongy sac and furry gray gills that are known as dead man’s fingers). Use the back of a Chinese cleaver, a strong chef’s knife, or a pestle to break up the crab shells into small pieces. Place them in a large bowl.
- Now make the crab stock: Heat the oil in a large pot and add the onion, carrot, celery, garlic, and lemongrass. Stir over high heat until the vegetables are golden and beginning to soften, 4–6 minutes. Add the crab shells, tomato paste, and a splash of brandy or Cognac and stir well. Fry for 4–5 minutes longer, stirring frequently. Add the Noilly Prat and boil for a few minutes until reduced by twothirds. Pour in enough water to cover (about 3 cups) and bring to a simmer. Skim off any scum or froth from the surface of the liquid, then add the tomatoes and herbs. Simmer for 20 minutes.
- Strain the stock through a fine sieve into a clean pot. Discard the shells and vegetables. Bring the stock to a boil and let it bubble vigorously until reduced by a third, to about 2 cups. Stir in a few tablespoons of crème fraîche and season well to taste.
- Spoon the crabmeat into the center of warmed bowls and pour the piping hot soup around. (You could also add the crabmeat to the gently simmering soup to warm through before serving.) Garnish with cilantro leaves and serve.