Country Ham and Red-Eye Gravy

Most country ham is fat enough to lubricate the skillet; if not, heat a little vegetable oil or bacon drippings in the skillet before adding the ham.

• If the ham is lean, heat the vegetable oil in a large, heavy skillet over moderately high heat for about a minute before adding the ham. If not, add the ham directly to the hot skillet. Cook the ham for about 2 minutes on each side or until richly browned; transfer to paper toweling to drain.
• Pour the coffee into the skillet and simmer for about 2 minutes, scraping up the browned bits on the skillet bottom. Do not allow to boil; the gravy will turn bitter.
• To serve, arrange the country ham on heated plates and accompany with grits and/or freshly baked biscuits. Pass the redeye gravy separately. Some Southerners spoon the red-eye over their grits (and/or biscuits), some ladle it over their ham, and some slosh it over everything. There’s no right or wrong.