Curried Stir-Fried Potatoes

If you cut potatoes small enough, they’ll become tender quickly, but in this dish—inspired by similar creations popular in Sichuan and throughout India—they remain slightly crunchy. Best with homemade curry powder or garam masala. The cumin seeds add a nice bit of crunch, and the cilantro adds a fresh note at the end, but neither is essential. Other vegetables you can use: cauliflower, broccoli, carrots, turnips, radishes, celeriac.

3 tablespoons neutral oil, like corn or canola

1 tablespoon cumin seeds (optional)

1 small red onion, finely chopped

11/2 pounds all-purpose potatoes, peeled and shredded or minced

1 tablespoon garam masala or curry powder (to make your own, see curry powder
), or to taste

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Pinch cayenne

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves

• Put the oil in a large nonstick or well-seasoned cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, add the cumin seeds if you’re using them, fry them for 30 seconds, then add half the onion and the potatoes.
• Add the spice blend, salt, pepper, and cayenne. Cook, stirring or tossing, until the onion has caramelized and the potatoes are lightly browned, about 10 minutes; the potatoes need not be fully tender.
• Add the cilantro to the pan, toss once, and transfer to a serving platter. Garnish with the raw onion and serve immediately.

Stir-Fried Potatoes, Korean Style.
• Omit the cumin, onion, spice blend, and cilantro; use scallion instead of red onion. In Step 1, add 1 teaspoon garlic to the oil (you’re going to need 2 teaspoons in all), then half the scallion and the potatoes about 30 seconds later, along with about a tablespoon minced fresh chile (like jalapeño or Thai), or to taste, or hot red pepper flakes or cayenne to taste. In Step 2, add the remaining garlic, along with a teaspoon of minced ginger, and cook for 30 seconds or so. Garnish with a tablespoon or two toasted sesame seeds and serve.

MAKES: 4 servings

TIME: 20 minutes