Damson Preserves

3 pounds firm-ripe damson plums, halved and pitted but not peeled (you’ll need 5 cups of prepared damsons)
1 cup water
4 cups sugar
2 teaspoons finely grated orange zest
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

The tiny, tart, black-skinned, golden-fleshed damsons are what Southerners prize for preserves.

Place all ingredients in a large, heavy nonreactive kettle—a broad-bottomed one is best—and insert a candy thermometer. Set over moderately low heat and bring to a boil, stirring now and then. Adjust the heat so the mixture bubbles gently, then cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the mixture reaches the jelling point (218° to 220° F.).
Meanwhile, wash and rinse 5 half-pint preserving jars and their closures and submerge in a large kettle of boiling water.
Ladle the boiling preserves into the hot jars, filling each to within ¼ inch of the top. Tip: To avoid spills, use a wide-mouth canning funnel. Wipe the jar rims with a damp cloth and screw on the closures.
Process the jars for 15 minutes in a hot water bath (185° F.). Lift from the water bath; complete the seals, if necessary, by tightening the lids, then cool to room temperature.
Date and label each jar, then store on a cool, dark shelf for about a month before serving.