Dan Dan Ragu

This very spicy ragù is a world away from the others—from China, to be exact.

3 tablespoons sesame oil

3 tablespoons Shaoxing or dry sherry

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger

3⁄4 pound ground pork or ground beef, preferably 80% lean

1 tablespoon peanut oil

4 scallions, thinly sliced

4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 medium carrot, peeled and sliced into thin rings

1 teaspoon sugar

13⁄4 cups chicken broth

2 teaspoons Asian red chile paste

1 tablespoon natural-style peanut butter or tahini

1 tablespoon rice vinegar

1 pound fresh or 12 ounces dried egg noodles, cooked and drained

1⁄4 cup chopped roasted unsalted peanuts

• Whisk the sesame oil, Shaoxing or sherry, soy sauce, and ginger in a medium bowl. Crumble in the beef or pork, stir to coat thoroughly, cover, and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight. Let the mixture sit at room temperature for 15 minutes before proceeding with the recipe.
• Heat a large saucepan over medium heat. Swirl in the peanut oil, then add the scallions, garlic, and carrot. Sauté just until the scallions turn translucent, about 2 minutes. Do not let the garlic brown.
• Crumble the pork or beef into the pan with a fork; add any remaining marinade in the bowl. Cook just until the meat loses its raw, pink color, about 1 minute.
• Sprinkle the sugar over the meat, then stir in the broth, scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Bring the mixture to a simmer, then stir in the chili paste and peanut butter or tahini.
• Reduce the heat to very low, so the sauce bubbles at just the slightest simmer. Set a lid askew over the pan and cook until the pork or beef is very tender and the sauce has thickened somewhat, about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
• Stir in the vinegar. To serve, mound the noodles on a serving platter or in a deep bowl. Top with the sauce, then sprinkle the peanuts over the dish.

Makes enough sauce for 1 pound fresh or 12 ounces dried pasta