Fish Stew with Sauerkraut

Sauerkraut provides just the right acidity for the fish, smoked fish, and—optional—smoked meat. Be sure to use a mixture of fish that includes some white-fleshed fish fillet, like cod, snapper, or halibut; some smoked fish, like trout or haddock; and a piece of skinned salmon. Serve with boiled potatoes.

1 pound sauerkraut, preferably fresh (or stored in glass or plastic, not cans), rinsed and drained

4 ounces smoked ham or sausage, chopped (optional)

1 teaspoon dried juniper berries, lightly crushed with the side of a knife

1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

1 bay leaf

1 cup dry white wine

About 11/2 pounds mixed fish (see headnote)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 shallot, minced

1/4 cup cream

8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter, slightly softened

Juice of 1 lemon

Chopped fresh parsley leaves for garnish

• Put the sauerkraut, the ham if you’re using it, the juniper, thyme, bay, and all but 2 tablespoons of the white wine in a deep skillet with a lid or a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. When the mixture begins to bubble, lower the heat and cover, adjusting the heat so the mixture simmers. Cook for about 40 minutes, stirring occasionally. Lay the fish fillets on top of the sauerkraut, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cover the pan once again.
• Cook the remaining white wine with the shallot in a small saucepan over medium-high heat until the liquid has almost evaporated, about 5 minutes. Turn the heat to low, add the cream, and stir. Add the butter, a little bit at a time, stirring all the while. When the mixture is creamy, stir in the lemon juice along with some salt and pepper. Keep warm.
• When the fish is tender, about 10 minutes after adding it, spoon the sauerkraut and fish onto a platter; drizzle the sauce over all. Garnish with parsley and serve, preferably with boiled potatoes.

MAKES: 4 servings

TIME: 1 hour