Gilthead Bream and Wild Celery Stew
Instructions:
Gilthead bream are in season in the fall in the waters
around the western and northwestern coasts of
Greece, where this dish is a local favorite. Bream also
appears in the local rendition of savoro, fried fish preserved
in a sweet-sour sauce made of vinegar, tomato,
garlic, onions, and bay leaf, something found in many
other parts of Greece
Salt
2 pounds gilthead bream, cleaned and gutted
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 large onions, coarsely chopped
2 large carrots, cut into 1⁄4-inch-thick rounds
11⁄2 pounds cultivated celery, coarsely chopped,
plus 1 teaspoon ground celery seeds, or
2 pounds thin-stalked wild celery (see Note)
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
Juice of 2 lemons
2 large eggs
- Salt the fish inside and out and refrigerate for an hour.
- Meanwhile, prepare the vegetables: Heat the olive oil in a large pot and cook the onions over low heat, stirring until wilted, about 10 minutes. Add the carrots, celery, and celery seeds, if using, and toss to coat with the oil. Season with salt and pepper and pour in half the lemon juice and enough water to cover the vegetables by 1⁄2 inch.
- Cover and simmer over low heat until the vegetables are tender, about 45 minutes, adding water if necessary to keep the mixture from burning. Place the fish on top of the vegetables in the pot. Cover and simmer until flaky, about 15 minutes.
- Prepare the egg-lemon sauce: Beat the eggs and remaining lemon juice together with a wire whisk in a small bowl. Slowly add a ladleful of the pan juices from the fish, whisking all the while, and immediately pour the avgolemono into the pot. Stir gently, remove from the heat, and serve.
- NOTE Wild celery is available at some specialty greengrocers. The dish may be made a little ahead of time, reheated slightly, and the avgolemono prepared at the last minute, just before serving.