Golden Layer Cake

This tender, delicate cake takes either white or chocolate frosting beautifully and can be given the subtle flavor of vanilla or the bolder flavor of orange. Make it even more golden and rich by using all egg yolks.

10 tablespoons (11/4 sticks) unsalted butter, softened, plus some for the pans and the paper

2 cups cake or all-purpose flour, plus some for the pans

11/4 cups sugar

4 eggs or 8 yolks

1 teaspoon vanilla extract or 1 tablespoon grated or minced orange zest

1/4 teaspoon almond extract

21/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup milk

• Heat the oven to 350 F. Grease the bottom and sides of two 9-inch or three 8-inch layer cake pans; cover the bottom with a circle of wax or parchment paper, butter the paper, and sift flour over the pans; invert and tap to remove the excess flour.
• Use an electric mixer to cream the butter until smooth, then gradually add the sugar. Beat until light in color and fluffy, 3 or 4 minutes. Beat in the eggs or yolks, one at a time, then the vanilla or orange zest and the almond extract. Combine the flour, baking powder, and salt; add to the egg mixture by hand, a little at a time, alternating with the milk. Stir just until smooth.
• Turn the batter into the pans and bake until a toothpick inserted into the center of the cakes comes out clean, about 25 minutes. Let the cake cool in the pan for 5 minutes, then invert onto a rack to finish cooling. Frost or glaze if you like. Store at room temperature, covered with wax paper, for up to a day or two; use plastic wrap and it will keep for an extra day or so.

MAKES: At least 10 servings

TIME: About 1 hour