Grilled Clams, Mussels, or Oysters

Use all one type of seafood or a mixture. This can also be made in a very hot oven, in which case it’s called a panroast. Long tongs are a must here so you can move the hot shells around. Other seafood you can use: shell-on or peeled shrimp, in-shell scallops.

30 to 40 clams or mussels or 24 oysters, well washed

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter

Tabasco or other hot sauce, to taste (optional)

Freshly squeezed lemon juice, to taste

• Heat a charcoal or gas grill until quite hot or heat the oven to 500 F. When the fire is hot, put the seafood on the grill or put them in a basket and put the basket on the grill. (If you’re using the oven, put them in a roasting pan and slide it into the oven.)
• Melt the butter in a small saucepan over low heat, add the hot sauce and the lemon juice, and let it sizzle for a couple of minutes over low heat.
• As the clams open—some will take a minute or two, others several—transfer them to a platter and move the more stubborn members to hotter parts of the fire.
• Try to keep the liquor in the shells of those that open, but don’t be a fanatic about it; you’re bound to lose some.
• When they’re all cooked, drizzle the seasoned butter over them and take to the table. Be careful: The hot shells can be damaging to careless lips. Use a small knife to open any clams that may have remained closed; as long as they were alive to begin with, they are perfectly safe.
  Grilled Oysters, California Style.
  • Shuck the oysters, saving as much liquid in the bottom shells as possible, along with the oysters. Discard the top shells. Melt the but-ter with 1 cup barbecue sauce
    and add hot sauce—or a little horseradish or lemon juice—if you like. Put the oysters, face up, on the grill. When the liquid starts to bubble and the oysters begin to cook, put a spoonful of sauce on top of each. They’re done when the sauce dries out a bit and the oysters start to turn opaque—just a few minutes. Serve with oyster crackers or crusty bread.
• MAKES: 4 appetizer servings
• TIME: 30 minutes