Grilled or Broiled Chicken Kebabs

Well-seasoned grilled or broiled kebabs will make anyone a convert to dark-meat chicken. You can use chicken breasts here too, but watch them closely so they don’t overcook and dry out. Other protein you can use: turkey thighs; pork or veal shoulder, steak, or loin; sturdy fish like swordfish or salmon.

About 11/2 pounds boneless chicken thighs or legs, cut into 11/2-inch chunks

2 large onions

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Juice of 1 lemon

1 tablespoon minced garlic

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

3 bay leaves, crumbled

1 tablespoon fresh marjoram or oregano leaves or

1 teaspoon dried oregano

Lemon wedges or ground sumac (available in Middle Eastern stores

• If you’re using wooden skewers (you’ll need at least 8), soak them in warm water while you prepare the chicken. When you’re ready to cook—if you choose not to marinate the meat—heat a charcoal or gas grill or the broiler to moderate heat and put the rack about 4 inches from the heat source.
• For the marinade, chop one of the onions and combine it in a large bowl with the oil, lemon juice, gar lic, some salt and pepper, the bay leaves, and the marjoram; taste and adjust the seasoning. Marinate the chicken in this mixture for at least a few minutes or an hour or so at room temperature or longer—even overnight—in the refrigerator.
• Cut the remaining onion into quarters, then separate it into large pieces. Thread the chicken and onion alternately onto skewers, leaving a little space between pieces.
• Broil or grill, turning once or twice, until the chicken is cooked through, 12 to 15 minutes (to check for doneness, cut into a piece with a thin-bladed knife; the center should be white or slightly pink). Serve with the lemon wedges or sprinkle with a bit of sumac.

MAKES: 4 servings

TIME: About 30 minutes, plus time to marinate