Grilled or Broiled Mushrooms

There’s a big difference in how various mushrooms take to the heat of a broiler or—even more so—a grill: Ordinary button mushrooms are okay but, well, ordinary. Many wild mushrooms are simply too delicate (though the absolute best grilled mushrooms are fresh porcini if you can find them). The three best of the widely available mushrooms for grilling are shiitake, cremini, and portobello. Portobello are the most striking looking, but big shiitakes can look pretty good too, and they are delicious.

1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon minced shallot, scallion, onion, or garlic

1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves (optional)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 large portobello mushrooms, trimmed and cut in half right down the middle; 12 to 16 cremini, trimmed and cut in half or left whole; or 12 to 16 shiitakes, stems removed (reserve for stock), caps left whole or cut in half

Chopped fresh parsley leaves for garnish

• Heat a charcoal or gas grill or a broiler to until quite hot and put the rack about 4 inches from the heat source. Mix together the olive oil, shallot, thyme if you have it, salt, and pepper. Brush the mushrooms all over with about half of this mixture.
• Grill or broil the mushrooms with the tops of their caps away from the heat until they begin to brown, 5 to 8 minutes. Brush with the remaining oil and turn. Grill until tender and nicely browned all over, 5 to 10 minutes more. Garnish and serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.

MAKES: 4 servings

TIME: About 20 minutes