Grilled or Broiled Pork Chops

Simple, as long as you start with pork that’s got some fat. For this, it’s especially worth seeking out meat from a specialty purveyor, one that offers old-fashioned or heirloom pork products.

4 center-cut loin pork chops, about 1 inch thick, trimmed of excess fat

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Lemon wedges for serving

• Heat a charcoal or gas grill or the broiler until moderately hot and put the rack about 4 inches from the heat source. As the fire heats, let the chops reach room temperature if you haven’t already done so.
• If you’re broiling, about 10 minutes before you’re ready to cook, put a castiron or other sturdy, heatproof skillet on the rack.
• Pat the chops dry, then rub them with half the olive oil and the lemon juice. Sprinkle them liberally with salt and pepper.
• Sear the chops over (or under) the hottest part of the fire for a minute or two per side, taking care not to let them burn.
• Then move them to a cooler part of the grill (or reduce the heat of the broiler or move the meat farther from the heat source) and cook, turning once or twice, until done, 10 to 20 minutes more (the timing depends on the heat of the fire, the thickness of the chops, and whether you cover the grill).
• The chops are done when firm to the touch, their juices run just slightly pink, and, when you cut into them (which you should do if you’re at all unsure of their doneness), the color is rosy at first glance but quickly turns pale.
• Brush the chops with a little more olive oil and serve with lemon wedges

MAKES: 4 servings

TIME: 20 minutes