Grilled or Broiled Squab, Vietnamese Style

This simple boning technique—in which the wing is left intact, protecting the breast against overcooking—can be used with any bird, including chicken. You can substitute quail (just split them in half ) or even Cornish game hens; the results will be somewhat less flavorful but much less expensive.

4 squab, about 1 pound each, innards and excess fat removed

1 tablespoon peanut or extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon chopped garlic

2 tablespoons chopped shallot

2 teaspoons sugar

1/4 cup nam pla (Thai fish sauce) or soy sauce

1 teaspoon dark sesame oil

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

• Bone the squab
• Mix together all the other ingredients and marinate the squab for up to 2 hours in the refrigerator (even a 20-minute bath is effective). Heat a charcoal or gas grill or the broiler to very high heat and put the rack about 4 inches from the heat source. G
• rill or broil the squab for about 6 minutes per side, basting frequently and turning once. It is at its best when crisp outside and still fairly pink inside.

MAKES: 4 to 8 servings

TIME: About 1 hour