Grilled, Pan-Grilled, or Broiled Steak, Many Ways

A gas grill simply will not do the trick for the best grilled steak. If you want your steak crisp and slightly charred on the outside and rare inside, you need a blazing hot fire and no cover; use real hardwood charcoal if at all possible. If you don’t have one, see the variations for nongrilling methods. Also try center-cut lamb or veal chops or shoulder steaks or pork chops no more than about an inch thick.

2 beef strip, rib-eye, or other steaks, 8 ounces each and about 1 inch thick, preferably at room temperature

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

• Build a medium-hot charcoal fire; you should not be able to hold your hand 3 inches above it for more than 2 or 3 seconds. The rack should be 3 or 4 inches from the top of the coals.
• Dry the steaks with paper towels and sprinkle with a little salt and pepper. Grill them without turning for 3 minutes (a little more if they’re over an inch thick, a little less if they’re thinner or you like steaks extremely rare). Turn, then grill for 3 minutes on the other side.
• The steaks will be rare to medium-rare.
• Check for doneness; if you must, make a small slit and look. (With practice, you’ll know by sight and touch.) If you would like the steaks better done, move them away from the most intense heat and grill for another minute or two per side; check again. When done, sprinkle with more salt and pepper if you like and serve.

Grilled Porterhouse or T-Bone Steak.
• These are best when 11/2 inches thick or thicker, weighing about 2 pounds, in which case they will easily serve 4 to 6 people. In Step 2, grill for 4 to 5 minutes per side, taking care not to burn the meat; the leaner tenderloin (the smaller of the two pieces on either side of the bone) is best very rare, so keep it toward the coolest part of the fire. Check for doneness. If not done to your liking, move the steak to a cooler part of the grill and cook for another 2 to 3 minutes per side before checking again.

Pan-Grilled Steak.
• A terrific option for 1-inch-thick steaks (not much thicker, though), as long as you have a decent exhaust fan; otherwise, see the next option. Heat a cast-iron or other sturdy skillet just large enough to hold the steaks over medium-high heat for 4 to 5 minutes; the pan should be really hot—in fact, it should be smoking. Sprinkle its surface with salt and put in the steaks. Clouds of smoke will instantly appear; do not turn down the heat. The timing remains the same as for grilled steaks and if you want pepper, add it after you turn the steaks for the last time.

Broiled Steak.
• Again, good for 1-inch-thick steaks. Heat the broiler until quite hot and adjust the rack so it’s 3 or 4 inches from the heat source. About 10 minutes before you’re ready to cook, put a cast-iron or other sturdy, heatproof skillet on the rack. Prepare the steaks as described in Step 2 and put them into the hot pan. Timing will depend on the heat of your broiler, so check for doneness frequently. The steak will sear on both sides without turning. Serve, if you like, with the pan drippings poured on top.

Pan-Grilled/Oven-Roasted Steak.
• An excellent method if you don’t have a first-rate exhaust system or your steak is thicker than 11/2 inches. Turn the oven to its maximum temperature, at least 500 F, and set a rack in the lowest possible position (if you can put a skillet directly on the oven floor, so much the better).
• Heat a cast-iron or other sturdy ovenproof skillet large enough to hold the steaks over medium-high heat for 4 to 5 minutes; the pan should be really hot, just about smoking. Sprinkle its surface with coarse salt and put in the steaks. Immediately transfer the skillet to the oven (wearing a thick oven mitt to protect your hand). Roast the steaks, turning once and sprinkling the top with pepper; timing remains the same as for grilled steaks, unless your steak is thick.

MAKES: 2 to 4 servings

TIME: About 10 minutes