Grouper or Other Thick White Fillets in Yellow Curry

For braising you have to use one of the sturdier species; you can also use steaks or cut-up whole fish. If you’re not crazy about curry, see the variations. Other seafood you can use: halibut, cod, or tilefish steaks; or whole fish—like red snapper, sea bass, or porgy—cut into pieces, bones and all.

3 tablespoons peanut or neutral oil, like grapeseed or corn

About 11/2 pounds grouper or other sturdy thick fillets cut into chunks

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

All-purpose flour for dredging

2 cups sliced onion

2 tablespoons curry powder or garam masala

2 cups coconut milk

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

Chopped fresh cilantro leaves for garnish

• Put 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Sprinkle the grouper chunks with salt and pepper and dredge lightly in flour, shaking off the excess. When the oil is not (a pinch of flour will sizzle), add the fish and cook over high heat until lightly browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the fish with a slotted spoon and set aside.
• Pour out the oil and lower the heat to medium.
• Wipe out the skillet if there are black bits in it (carefully— it’s hot). Add the remaining tablespoon of oil and the onion and cook, stirring, until very soft and beginning to brown, about 10 minutes. Stir in the curry powder, sprinkle with a bit more salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 2 minutes.
• Add the coconut milk to the onion mixture; bring to a boil over medium-high heat and cook until reduced by about one-third, about 3 minutes. Add the fish, reduce the heat to medium, and cook until the fish is tender, about 5 minutes. Add the lemon juice, taste and adjust the seasonings, garnish with cilantro, and serve.

Grouper or Other Thick White Fillets in Red or Green Curry.
• Substitute 1/4 cup Red or Green Curry Paste for the curry powder. Use 2 bunches scallions instead of the onion if you like. Substitute 2 tablespoons nam pla (Thai fish sauce) for the lemon juice. Proceed with the recipe, garnishing with a combination of mint and basil (Thai basil if you can find it) instead of the cilantro. Add a sprinkling of chopped peanuts if you like.

Grouper or Other Thick White Fillets in Tomato-Basil Cream.
• Use extra virgin olive oil instead of the peanut oil; omit the curry powder. Substitute 1 cup cream and 1 cup tomato purée for the coconut milk and 1 cup chopped or julienned basil leaves for the cilantro. Proceed with the recipe, adding half the basil in Step 2, where you would have added the curry powder.

Grouper or Other Thick White Fillets in Chipotle Cream.
• Rich and spicy: Use extra virgin olive oil instead of the peanut oil; omit the curry powder. Purée or mash 1 or two canned chipotle chiles in 2 tablespoons of their adobo. Substitute 2 cups cream or half-and-half for the coconut milk. Proceed with the recipe, adding the chipotle in Step 2, where you would have added the curry.

Grouper or Other Thick White Fillets in Roasted Garlic
• Cream. Roast 2 heads garlic and purée or mash with a fork. Use extra virgin olive oil instead of the peanut oil; omit the curry powder and the onion. Substitute 2 cups cream or half-and-half for the coconut milk. Proceed with the recipe, adding the mashed garlic in Step 2, where you would have added the curry. Garnish with 2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary.

Grouper or Other Thick White Fillets in Herb Broth.
• Use extra virgin olive oil instead of the peanut oil; omit the curry powder, onion, and coconut milk. Before beginning, purée 1 cup mixed mild herbs—like dill, chives, chervil, parsley, or mint—in 2 cups white wine, fish stock , water, or a combination. Proceed with the recipe, simmering this mixture in the pan for a few minutes in Step 3 before returning the fish to the pot.

MAKES: 4 servings

TIME: 45 minutes