Hanoi Noodle Soup

Akin to the Vietnamese soups known as pho and usually made with beef, this anise- and cinnamon-scented soup is equally good with chicken or with no meat at all. Rice noodles are sold in Asian markets and many supermarkets, and can be softened by soaking in hot water.

8 cups beef, chicken, or vegetable stock

4 star anise

One 3-inch cinnamon stick

1 inch fresh ginger

1 onion, quartered (don’t bother to peel)

4 cloves

1 pound rice vermicelli

1/2 pound boneless, skinless chicken or beef (preferably sirloin, tenderloin, or round), cut into thin slices

2 tablespoons nam pla (Thai fish sauce) or soy sauce

Freshly ground black pepper

Salt

Chopped fresh cilantro leaves for garnish

Lime wedges

1 fresh jalapeno chile, seeded and minced

• Combine the stock, star anise, cinnamon, ginger, onion, and cloves in a large, deep saucepan or casserole over high heat. When it boils, reduce the heat to an occasional bubble and cover. Cook, undisturbed, for as little as 20 and as long as 60 minutes, depending on your available time. Strain and return to the saucepan.
• Soak the rice noodles in hot water to cover until soft, 15 to 30 minutes. Rinse under cold water for a minute or so; drain.
• Bring the soup to a steady bubble; put the chicken or the beef in the pot and cook for 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Divide the noodles among 4 large bowls.
• Add the nam pla and plenty of pepper to the soup. Taste and add salt or more seasoning.
• Top the noodles with broth and meat, then garnish with cilantro. Serve, passing the lime wedges and minced chile at the table.

Quick Asian Noodle Soup with Pork.
• Season the broth and soak the noodles as directed; cook the broth for only 20 minutes. Instead of the uncooked chicken or beef, add to the broth 1/2 recipe Braised Pork with Spicy Soy Sauce along with some of its liquid. Omit the nam pla. Season and proceed with the recipe.

MAKES: 4 main-course servings

TIME: About 1 hour