HOLLOW PASTA WITH GREEK CINNAMON-TOMATO SAUCE

SAUCE

Good-tasting extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
⅓ tight-packed cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, coarse chopped
Salt and fresh-ground black pepper
1 heaping tablespoon tomato paste
6 large garlic cloves, minced
1¼ teaspoons dried oregano (Greek oregano preferred)
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon sugar
1 teaspoon ground Aleppo pepper or other medium-hot chile; or ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes
½ cup dry white or red wine
2 pounds ripe summer tomatoes; or one 28- ounce can whole tomatoes with their juice
1½ to 2 cups diced cooked chicken or lamb (organic if possible; optional)

PASTA

1 pound imported long hollow pasta like perciatelle, maccheroncelli, or ziti, broken into more or less 2-inch pieces, or short hollow pasta
1½ cups (6 ounces) fresh goat cheese, crumbled

Greek pastas are so seductive, especially the ones done with tomato sauces.

Bring the salted water to a boil.
Generously film the bottom of a straight-sided 12- inch sauté pan with olive oil and heat it over mediumhigh heat. Stir in the onions, parsley, and generous sprinklings of salt and pepper. Sauté the onions to golden brown. Then stir in the tomato paste, garlic, oregano, cinnamon, sugar, and Aleppo pepper. Turn the heat down to medium and sauté for 1 minute. Add the wine and cook for 1 minute.
If using fresh tomatoes, grate them on a grater over a bowl, and add the pulp with its juices to the pan. For canned tomatoes, crush them as they go into the pot. Raise the heat to medium high and cook the sauce for 8 minutes, or until thick. Taste for seasoning, remove the pan from the heat, and if using the chicken or lamb, stir it in. Cover the pan.
Drop the pasta into the boiling water. Boil, stirring often, for 8 minutes, or until the pasta is tender but still has a little bite. As the pasta cooks, reheat the sauce over medium-high heat. Once the pasta is done, drain it in a colander and add it to the sauce. Toss over the heat for a minute or more to help the sauce permeate the noodles. Turn half of it into a serving bowl and dot with half of the cheese. Add the rest of the pasta and top with the remaining cheese.