Lemon and eggplant risotto

The crucial component in this dish is the stock, which will make or break it. You can quickly make one by covering some aromatic vegetables and herbs (carrot, celery, onion, bay leaf, parsley, garlic, lemongrass, fennel, thyme, etc.) with water and simmering for half an hour. Look at the Parsnip Dumplings in Broth for a lengthier version. Unlike some other risotti, this one feels light as a feather - or almost.

2 medium eggplants

1/2 cup plus 1 tbsp olive oil

coarse sea salt

1 medium onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, crushed

7 oz good-quality risotto rice

1/2 cup white wine

3 1/4 cups hot vegetable stock

grated zest of 1 lemon

2 tbsp lemon juice

1 1/2 tbsp butter

1/2 cup grated Parmesan (about 2 oz) (or another mature hard cheese)

black pepper

1/2 cup shredded basil leaves

• Start by burning one of the eggplants. Once ready, remove from the heat and make a long cut through the eggplant. Scoop out the soft flesh while avoiding the skin. Discard the skin. Chop the flesh roughly and set aside.
• Cut the other eggplant into 1/2-inch dice. Heat up 1/3 cup of the olive oil in a frying pan and fry the eggplant dice in batches until golden and crisp. Transfer to a colander and sprinkle with salt. Leave to cool.
• Put the onion and remaining oil in a heavy pan and fry slowly until soft and translucent. Add the garlic and cook for a further 3 minutes. Turn up the heat and add the rice, stirring to coat it in the oil. Fry for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the wine (it should hiss) and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, or until nearly evaporated. Turn the heat down to medium.
• Now start adding the hot stock to the rice, a ladleful at a time, waiting until each addition has been fully absorbed before adding the next and stirring all the time. When all the stock has been added, remove the pan from the heat. Add half the lemon zest, the lemon juice, grilled eggplant, butter, most of the Parmesan and 3/4 teaspoon salt. Stir well, then cover and set aside for 5 minutes. Taste and add more salt, if you like, plus some black pepper.
• To serve, spoon the risotto into shallow bowls and sprinkle with the diced eggplant, the remaining Parmesan, the basil and the rest of the lemon zest.

Serves 4