Mashed Potatoes 2

Starchy potatoes make the fluffiest mash, but Yukon Gold or other all-purpose potatoes do well too. If you like mashed potatoes with the peel, make sure you scrub them well before cooking. If you like them lumpy, mash with a fork or potato masher; if you like them smooth and light, use a food mill or ricer. Just keep them away from mixers, food processors, or blenders, which makes them gummy. Other keys to keeping mashed potatoes fluffy: Cook them whole if possible; cook them with the peel on if possible (the peels will slip off easily after cooking, or you can eat them of course); and refrain from poking them. All of these steps reduce the tendency of the spuds to absorb water, which makes them heavier. Once the potatoes are mashed and combined with the milk and butter, they will keep for a little while in a double boiler. For even better control over them for timing a full meal, it’s easier to boil the potatoes a little ahead of time and let them sit for an hour or so (see Step 1).

2 pounds starchy or all-purpose potatoes

1 cup milk, plus more if needed

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

• Boil the potatoes. (The potatoes can be prepared to this point up to an hour in advance; just leave them in a colander to drain and dry out a bit.)
• While the potatoes are draining, wipe the pot dry and put it back on the stove over medium-low heat. Add the milk and the butter and sprinkle with salt and pepper.
• When the butter is almost melted, remove the pot from the heat. Rice the potatoes or run them through a food mill set over the pot or add them directly to the milk mixture and mash with a fork or potato masher. Return the pot to the heat and stir constantly with a wooden spoon to reach the desired consistency, adding more milk if necessary. Taste, adjust the seasoning, and serve.

Mashed Baked Potatoes.
• The drier texture means they’ll soak up more milk and butter: Bake potatoes. Peel or not and cut into cubes. Proceed with the recipe from Step 2, adding more milk and butter if you like.

Smashed Potatoes.
• Omit the milk. In Step 3, add the potatoes directly to the melted butter in the pan and mash roughly with a fork or masher, leaving lots of lumps. Stir a few times, adding more butter if you like.

Garlicky Mashed Potatoes.
• Peel 1 or 2 heads of garlic (or even 3 if you’re a fanatic) and boil them along with the potatoes. If you want stronger garlic mash, add a teaspoon or a tablespoon of minced garlic along with the milk and butter.

MAKES: 4 servings

TIME: About 40 minutes