Monkfish Braised in White Wine with Leeks and Pancetta

More properly called “angler fish,” this hideously ugly creature traps lobster, crab, and smaller fish in its cavernous mouth by twitching a wormlike lure from its head. The only part of the fish that we can eat is the tail, which makes for a silken, gelatinous fillet that tastes like spiny or Pacific lobster.

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

8 ounces pancetta, diced

1 large leek, dark green part removed, the rest halved, washed of any internal grit, and thinly sliced

2 cups dry white wine

2 teaspoons chopped rosemary leaves

1 bay leaf

11⁄2 to 2 pounds monkfish fillet, cut into 4 pieces

1 tablespoon chopped parsley leaves

• Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 450°F.
• Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a large ovenproof skillet set over medium heat. Add the pancetta; cook, stirring often, until crisp, about 4 minutes.
• Add the leek and cook until soft, stirring often, about 3 minutes.
• Pour in the wine and scrape up any browned bits on the pan’s bottom. Add the rosemary and bay leaf, bring the sauce to a simmer over medium- high heat, and cook until reduced by half, about 4 minutes.
• Place the fish in the skillet, then place the skillet in the oven. Bake for 5 minutes, then turn the pieces over and continue baking until firm and opaque, until a flatware knife inserted into the thickest part of the fillet and held there for 5 seconds feels warm to your lips (a gelatinous center) or hot (a firm center), about 5 to 10 minutes.
• Transfer the monkfish pieces to four serving plates. Return the skillet to medium-high heat and bring the sauce to a boil. Swirl in the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in two additions, then add the parsley and spoon the sauce over the fish.

Makes 4 servings