Oven Barbecued Pork Ribs

Cooking ribs is a balancing act. Is the meat done? Is it tender? Does it still barely adhere to the bone? You may perfect your technique over time, but the fi rst taste will hook you. Look for meaty, heavy rib racks with minimal fat clumps at the ends of the bones.

11⁄2 tablespoons packed light brown sugar

11⁄2 tablespoons chili powder

1 tablespoon mild or smoked paprika

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon dry mustard

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Two 2-pound racks pork ribs

• Mix the brown sugar, chili powder, paprika, salt, mustard, cumin, thyme, and pepper in a small bowl.
• Peel any thin, translucent membrane off the back of the racks, then make an incision between each of the ribs, starting at the leaner ends and cutting 2 inches down between them. (You can also have your butcher do this for you.) Rub the dry spice mixture over both sides of the meat, taking care to massage it in gently. Wrap the ribs in aluminum foil or plastic wrap and refrigerate at least overnight or up to 2 days. Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 275 F. Unwrap the ribs and set them out on the counter for 15 minutes while the oven heats.
• Set a metal rack in a broiler pan, roasting pan, or disposable aluminum pan. Set the ribs meat side down onto the rack. Bake for 30 minutes.
• Turn and continue baking until the meat has pulled back from the bones and is falling-apart tender in between the ribs, about 3 hours. Let stand at room temperature on a carving board for 10 minutes before slicing between the ribs and serving

Makes 2 racks, 4 to 6 servings