Penne with Pumpkin or Winter Squash

Zucca—the Italian equivalent of pumpkin or butternut squash—forms the basis for a slightly sweet, hot, spicy (the nutmeg is lovely) pasta sauce.

Salt

1 medium pumpkin or butternut squash (about 11/2 pounds), peeled and seeded

2 tablespoons butter or extra virgin olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes, or to taste

1 pound penne or other cut pasta

1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg, or to taste

Pinch sugar (optional)

1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. Cut the pumpkin into chunks and put it in a food processor fitted with a metal blade. Pulse the machine on and off until it appears grated. Alternatively, grate or chop the squash by hand.
Put the butter or oil in a large skillet over medium heat. When the butter is melted or the oil is hot, add the pumpkin, a good sprinkle of salt and pepper, the red pepper, and about 1/2 cup water. Cook at a steady bubble, stirring occasionally. Add more water, about 1/4 cup at a time, as the mixture dries out, taking care not to make it soupy. When the pumpkin begins to disintegrate, after 10 or 15 minutes, add the pasta to the boiling water.
While it cooks, season the pumpkin with the nutmeg, sugar if you like, and additional salt and pepper if needed.
When the pasta is tender but not mushy, drain it, reserving about 1/2 cup of the cooking water. Add the pasta to the pumpkin and a bit of the reserved cooking water if the mixture seems dry; toss with a large spoon until well combined. Taste and add more of any seasonings you like, then toss with the Parmesan and serve.
- Substitute peeled carrots or parsnips for the pumpkin; pulse or grate as directed. If you like, omit the nutmeg and toss in a teaspoon of chopped tarragon or chervil at the very end.
MAKES: About 4 servings
TIME: 30 minutes