Perfect gravy

For the best poultry gravy, do not roast the turkey or chicken in a nonstick roasting pan: It keeps the flavorful bits of meat and skin from cooking onto the pan.

Giblets from a turkey or chicken: neck, heart, gizzard, and liver

3 1 / 2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 celery stalks, roughly chopped

1 carrot, roughly chopped

1 medium onion, roughly chopped

1 medium leek, white and green parts, roughly chopped, well washed

6 whole black peppercorns

1 dried bay leaf

1 1 / 2 cups Madeira wine

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary

3 / 4 teaspoon coarse salt

1/ 8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

• Make the giblet broth while the turkey is roasting. Trim any fat or membrane from the giblets. The liver should not have the gallbladder, a small green sac, attached. If it is, trim it off, removing part of the liver if necessary. Do not pierce the sac; it contains bitter liquid. Rinse the giblets, and pat dry.
• In a medium saucepan, melt 3 tablespoons butter over medium-high heat. Add the vegetables. Cook, stirring, until slightly brown, 5 to 10 minutes. Reduce heat to medium; add the neck. Cook, stirring, until slightly brown, about 5 minutes. Add 1 quart water. Add the heart, gizzard, peppercorns, and bay leaf. Cover; bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low; cook, uncovered, until broth is reduced to about 3 cups, 50 to 60 minutes. Set aside.
• Meanwhile, chop the liver finely. Melt the remaining 1 / 2 tablespoon butter in a small skillet over medium-low heat. Add the liver; cook, stirring constantly, until the liver is fully cooked and no longer releases blood, 4 to 6 minutes. Add to the cooking giblet broth.

MAKES 3 CUPS