Ragu Bolognese

2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 medium onion, chopped
2 celery ribs, thinly sliced into crescents
1 carrot, peeled and thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, minced
1⁄2 pound ground beef, preferably 80% lean
1⁄4 pound ground pork
2⁄3 cup milk, regular or low-fat
1⁄4 teaspoon grated nutmeg
1 cup white wine, preferably an Italian white
One 28-ounce can whole tomatoes, preferably Italian plum tomatoes, crushed or cut up in the can with kitchen shears (31⁄2 cups)
2 teaspoons minced oregano leaves or
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1⁄2 teaspoon salt
Beef broth, as needed
1 pound fresh or 12 ounces dried pasta, cooked and drained
1 ounce Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated
1⁄4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Heat a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the olive oil and butter. When the butter melts, add the onion and cook just until translucent, about 2 minutes.
Add the celery and carrot; cook until glistening and slightly softened, about 1 minute. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 20 seconds, stirring constantly.
Crumble in the beef and pork with a fork, taking care to keep the meat’s fi bers intact but not to leave any large clumps. Stir a few times; the moment the meat loses its pink raw color, stir in the milk and nutmeg. Raise the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring once in a while, until the milk has almost evaporated, about 4 minutes.
Stir in the wine, scraping up any browned bits on the pan’s bottom. Keep the heat fairly high and continue simmering until the wine has reduced by half.
Stir in the tomatoes, oregano, and salt. When the mixture comes to a simmer, turn the heat to very low. Simmer, uncovered, at the slightest bubble, just a pop or two, for about 1 hour.
You want the sauce to thicken considerably but you must not let it dry out. If it does, add beef broth in 1⁄4-cup increments—but do not allow it to get soupy. It’s a delicate balance; just remember: this is a meat sauce, not a tomato sauce.
To serve, spoon about 1⁄2 cup of the sauce in the bottom of a large bowl or serving platter. Top with the hot pasta, then the remainder of the ragu. Sprinkle the grated cheese and pepper over the top.