Ramps in fluffy eggs

4 large eggs;

1 tablespoon ice water;

1⁄4 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste;

1 tablespoon butter;

4 ramps (bulbs and tender greens), finely chopped;

1⁄2 cup fresh ricotta cheese;

Ground black pepper, to taste;

4 pieces of buttered toast or split biscuits, for serving.

Whisk the eggs in a medium bowl until the whites and yolks are blended. Add the water and salt and whisk vigorously until the long, ropey strands of egg white disappear.
Melt the butter in a medium nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. Add the ramps and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes. Whisk the eggs again and add to the skillet. Reduce the heat to low and let the eggs sit until the edges start to firm up. Gently and slowly drag a heatproof spatula or wooden spoon back and forth across the bottom of the pan, making sure you cover the entire surface.
When the eggs are barely set and still quite moist on top, remove the skillet from the heat, add the ricotta, and stir gently to incorporate. It’s fine if a few clumps of ricotta remain visible. The eggs will continue cooking as you stir. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and serve at once over the toast.
Variation: Ramps are often in season at the same time as the earliest spring asparagus and morels. If you ever encounter this fortunate confluence, cook a handful of diced asparagus and/or sliced morels along with the ramps before you add the eggs.