Ramps in fluffy eggs
Instructions:
- Whisk the eggs in a medium bowl until the whites and yolks are blended. Add the water and salt and whisk vigorously until the long, ropey strands of egg white disappear.
- Melt the butter in a medium nonstick skillet over medium-low heat. Add the ramps and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes. Whisk the eggs again and add to the skillet. Reduce the heat to low and let the eggs sit until the edges start to firm up. Gently and slowly drag a heatproof spatula or wooden spoon back and forth across the bottom of the pan, making sure you cover the entire surface.
- When the eggs are barely set and still quite moist on top, remove the skillet from the heat, add the ricotta, and stir gently to incorporate. It’s fine if a few clumps of ricotta remain visible. The eggs will continue cooking as you stir. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and serve at once over the toast.
- Variation: Ramps are often in season at the same time as the earliest spring asparagus and morels. If you ever encounter this fortunate confluence, cook a handful of diced asparagus and/or sliced morels along with the ramps before you add the eggs.