Risotto with Dried and Fresh Mushrooms

If you have dried mushrooms on hand (the addition of fresh mushrooms is a bonus), you can make this tasty risotto anytime. But note that any vegetable—artichoke hearts, green beans, snow peas, and so on—can be cooked on the side and stirred into the risotto at the last minute, as the fresh mushrooms are here (see the list that follows).

1/2 cup dried porcini mushrooms

4 to 6 tablespoons butter or extra virgin olive oil, to taste

1 medium onion, chopped

11/2 cups Arborio or other short- or medium-grain rice

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup dry white wine or water

4 to 5 cups chicken, beef, or vegetable stock (to make your own, see) or water

1 cup sliced shiitake or portobello mushroom caps

Freshly grated Parmesan cheese (optional)

• Rinse the dried mushrooms once or twice, then soak them in hot water to cover. Put 2 tablespoons of the butter or oil in a large, deep nonstick skillet over medium heat. When the butter is melted or the oil is hot, add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until it softens, 3 to 5 minutes.
• Add the rice and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is glossy and coated with butter or oil, 2 to 3 minutes.
• Add a little salt and pepper, then the white wine. Stir and let the liquid bubble away. Drain the porcini and chop them, then stir them in, along with about half of their soaking liquid.
• Use a ladle to begin adding the stock, 1/2 cup or so at a time, stirring after each addition. When the stock is just about evaporated, add more. The mixture should be neither soupy nor dry. Stir frequently, keeping the heat at medium to medium-high. Meanwhile, put the remaining butter or oil (more will make a creamier risotto) in a small skillet over medium-high heat. When the butter is melted or the oil is hot, add the fresh mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned and almost crisp, about 10 minutes, then remove from the heat.
• Begin tasting the rice 20 minutes after you add it; you want it to be tender but still with a tiny bit of crunch; it could take as long as 30 minutes to reach this stage. When it does, stir in the cooked mushrooms, with their butter, and at least 1/2 cup of Parmesan if you’re using it. Taste, adjust the seasoning, and serve immediately, passing additional Parmesan at the table.
  Risotto with Meat.
  • Omit the porcini and other mushrooms. Add 2 to 4 ounces of any of the following, alone or in combination: ground meat (beef, pork, veal, or poultry); sausage, removed from its casings; or diced prosciutto, pancetta, or country ham. Add the meat with the onion, stirring and breaking up any lumps that form. Proceed with the recipe, omitting the finishing butter.
  Risotto with Vegetables and Herbs.
  • Omit the porcini. In Step 1, add 1 celery stalk and 1 medium carrot, chopped, as well as 1 sprig fresh rosemary or thyme (or 1/2 teaspoon dried), along with the onion. Cook until the vegetables are glossy and the onion softens, then proceed with the recipe.
• MAKES: 4 to 6 servings
• TIME: 45 minutes